Delivery was impressively quick and I was soon staring at a huge cardboard box, which proved easier to manoeuvre than expected, though I was happy to have a second pair of hands to help drag it up the stairs. I’d read about the concept of vacuum-packed mattresses to facilitate easier delivery and placement in the home, so was curious to see what would unfold, literally and figuratively, once I got it in situ. When I had it roughly positioned on the divan base, I carefully set about the plastic packaging with a pair of scissors, following the admirably concise instructions, to create a rush of air and see the mattress begin its six hour journey toward being expanded enough to use.

Fast forward through most of a working day, numerous cups of tea and the child’s tap-dancing lesson, and the Simba Original Hybrid was ready for dressing. It was interesting to note it filled our divan base a lot more accurately than its aged predecessor, though the provenance of that is lost to the mists of time. The layered construction features an “Aerocoil” spring layer consisting of 1,900 springs and a “Simbatex” foam layer with nine zones to help isolate movement. There’s also a removable cover on the top layer to help you keep things nice and sanitary. A good smattering of buzzwords, but what does that actually amount to?

First impressions were strong, with a luxurious give to the mattress that seemed to offer support across the body evenly across the hips and back to support the whole body. The Simba Hybrid original is described as medium-firm which seems about right to my entirely subjective assessment. The firmness appears uniform across the entire width of the mattress, not tapering toward the edges, and it immediately felt comfortable to me. The days of being able to fall asleep on any random floor are long gone, but I appreciated the reassuring firmness on offer here. As an aside, it also looked rather smart… largely irrelevant for something that’s covered in a sheet for the vast majority of its lifespan, but pleasing nonetheless. I’d expected to take a few nights to adjust, but immediately felt at home and realised how unfit for purpose the old mattress had been. The difference couldn’t have been starker and I was immediately a convert. I even felt like the occasional stiff neck I pick up had softened – perhaps psychosomatic but equally likely a function of sleeping on a battered old mattress that wasn’t fit for purpose. There aren’t a huge number of beds in this house, but I immediately feel a pang of guilt for allowing my daughter to continue on her cheap mattress that I picked up without much thought – perhaps she’s due an upgrade too.

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Situated on an unassuming industrial estate on the outskirts of York, the Agility York street presence is rather understandably more akin to your typical play-barn than a restaurant but once inside and in the surprisingly spacious upstairs dining area things are just as comfortable as you’d hope and well separated from the more active areas, the noise from which didn’t impinge on our meal. We quickly rattled through the Tapas menu, also ordering from the children’s menu and settled in with a cold Estrella.

First to arrive was a generous platter of Spanish meats and cheeses generously scattered with olives and cornichon that was perfect grazing while the other dishes shuffled onto the table, starting with salt cod croquettes with a saffron dip that were crisped to perfection externally and unctuous inside with plenty of cod present and a deep hit of saffron to add breadth. Albondigas came next with a rich tomato sauce and generous notes of garlic while we also grazed on bread with olive oil and balsamic, a satisfying trio that’s slunk back from its ubiquity a decade ago. Green beans sautéed with more garlic and some pumpkin seeds dropped next along with calamari rings, something that can trip up this sort of menu. No such worries from Sam though as they were blessed with a satisfying crunch, soft calamari and a powerful lemon mayo for balance. That just left patatas bravas which had been executed to the same high standard with crispy potatoes paired against a good punch of heat from the tomato sauce.

This would all have added up to a top-notch tapas meal from a specialist restaurant, let alone a single night in what’s primarily a fitness/play destination but, in truth, knowing Sam and his pedigree that’s hardly a surprise. The menu full of tapas staples was not only well put together but great value and bodes well for the future. Next up is a Greek night on 6th July; on the evidence of this, it’ll be another great evening.

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The journey begins at Pickering, where we were rather early after leaving leeway for the unpredictability of traffic on A64. This afforded us the chance to stop by the tea room just off the platform and start with a few snacks while grabbing hot drinks to take on the train. The Coronation Chicken sandwiches were executed extremely well and fill generously! Boarding goes smoothly after your kids are issued with tokens to redeem for a gift from Santa himself and the train is judiciously loaded with blankets, a sensible precaution given the time of year and heritage nature of the fleet – it’s worth dressing up warm too.

Pulling out of Pickering station on the NYMR Santa Special is an experience in itself as invariably rail enthusiasts line the route at all the best vantage points while you get snug and take in the views. This was actually a novelty for me as it’s been years since I’ve been aboard in daylight, my last few journeys having been on the Disco Steam Train experience. We’d got Little Fork’s best mate with us for the ride too so they kept themselves occupied before the elves came round to introduce themselves and inject some jollity into our travels. We listened to Santa land his sleigh on the roof of the train ready to make his rounds. The big man made his appearance in due course distributing toys to all the kids and patiently listening to their requests for Christmas itself, with us then becoming occupied putting together said gift before the train reversed course to get back to Pickering from our stop at Levisham.

The return leg was filled with more games from the elves while the children snuggled with their new toys and we patted ourselves on the back for another 12 months of having kept the magic intact, phew! Tickets for the NYMR Santa Special are still available to book for £30 a head here.

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With its starring role in so many films, Castle Howard should need little introduction to anyone in York, but the long straight drive through several narrow archways serves as just that as one approaches the estate before making your way through a courtyard into the grounds. It’s a spectacular place to visit at any time of year but when dressed for the festive season it’s all the more memorable. Each year the main house shuts for a period to facilitate the vast undertaking of readying it for the Christmas crowds and I was lucky enough to be one of the first to get to see the fruits of this year’s labour. JM Barrie and Peter Pan are the inspiration this year for Neverland at Castle Howard which raises the bar again for spectacle in this destination.

As one makes their way around the house, you can see JM Barrie’s office recreated in one of the bedrooms, Captain Hook’s den and a mermaid pool amongst other things. These are all brought to life by the addition of audio-visual elements for the first time, putting Tinkerbell right in the middle of the action particularly memorably in a food fight!

It wouldn’t do to spoil too much of the experience but the team at Castle Howard have certainly created something special this year with the help of designer Charlotte Lloyd-Webber. There’s a huge amount of detail to take in as you make your way round, with many nods to both Barrie and the characters he created, definitely an experience worth making time for this Christmas!

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It took about 40 minutes to get to William’s Den but parking was plentiful and easy when we arrived so we were quickly checked in and getting our bearings while the helpful staff took us through the various activities which would be taking place throughout the day. We started with the indoor play area which immediately made me realise this is not another identikit soft play cage in which to send your children. This multi-level facility is singularly impressive, incorporating water and sand play as well as opportunities to climb and plenty of hiding spots for hide and seek, perfect for parents to engage too! There was absolutely masses to explore and engage with, making this comfortably one of, if not the most, impressive indoor play facilities I’ve been to.

As the weather improved, we made our way outside to start to engage with the various activities out there with den building, mud kitchens, zip lines and masses more to explore. The mole hill tunnels were particularly popular, as well as being muddy – make sure to wear wellies when you visit if the weather has been wet. It’s passed for this year so perhaps less pertinent to your current plans, but we were there for Halloween and found it to be a thoroughly cohesive and well thought through endeavour. On arrival we pre-booked a slot for the trick or treating street, with not a massive idea of what to expect, which when the time came was prompt and well organised with the staff all super-helpful and in character at all times. The experience itself went on for about 40 minutes, stopping at a number of ‘houses’ along a ‘street’ that each contained a different actor with whom to interact and extort sweets from.

By this point we were ready to eat so made our way back to be seated promptly in the busy restaurant and restore our energy for more play. I’ve spoken to chefs before who’ve helped in the kitchen here so expected a touch more than the usual chicken nuggets and hotdogs routine, so was excited to pick on a Korean fried chicken burger that would represent the more adventurous part of the table along with a mini kids burger and a pizza. The Korean chicken thighs were robustly flavoured and spiced, with chilli and gochujang tempered by lettuce and a sweet brioche bun making this by some margin the most interesting thing I’ve eaten in this kind of setting. The presence of a large wood-fired oven suggested that the pizza would hit the spot and it duly delivering, with fresh tomato and plenty of cheese on a base left slightly soft and child friendly while the burger was another pleasant surprise with a well judged hit of caramelisation on the patty which was enrobed by cheese. Suitably fortified, we took another run around the outdoors before rushing back to decorate a chocolate apple with as many sprinkles as our daughter could feasibly encase the chocolate with.

The Halloween activities were tremendously well organised with pumpkin carving, a disco and fancy dress competition amongst the other elements of the offering but the broader context of day to day operation was just as slick. While this visit had been focussed around Halloween, there was more than enough on offer to tempt us back for repeat visits, William’s Den being firmly in the top tier of family destinations that I’ve encountered so far. It was well thought through, engaging and broad with lots of nice touches and things to do that make it easily worth the drive out of York.

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Starting from Pickering at twilight, the NYMR Light Spectacular experience dresses a steam train inside and out with thousands of lights, equips all of those on board with light up wrist bands and throws in a soundtrack running right from the 60’s to the present day. Pickering station is 1930’s themed and a charming time capsule, which would have been sadly lost had it been demolished to build a car park in the 70’s as was proposed at the time! When we arrived, the waiting room and cafe were up and running so we quickly furnished ourselves with refreshments while gasping at the sight of the steam locomotive waiting for us, wreathed in countless lights.

As you make your way inside to your seat, the number of lights remains just as remarkable and striking with the whole train seemingly threaded through with, and consumed externally under, huge numbers of twinkling lights of all colours. By this point the train was humming with anticipation and excited families, who were all donning their light up wristbands as the music got underway and we started to pull out of Pickering station to begin our hour long round trip to Levisham. At this point the music, introduced in classic radio DJ style, kicked off in earnest and ramped up the volume while also revealing that our wristbands could sync themselves with the music as well as divide us into groups to spark audience participation. With the mobile party in full swing, I registered that actually one of the most attractive elements of the light show was the way that the lights threw the scenery we passed into relief; the coloured lights and resulting shadows really bringing the passing countryside to life in unexpected and unique ways.

Regardless of your taste in music, and mine certainly runs to the niche, it was hard not to get swept up in the atmosphere as we gently chugged to Levisham and back…my stoic resistance to dancing may even have been breached for the first time in a decade or so. Alighting at Pickering gave us the chance to really take in the train from the outside, with darkness having descended since our original departure to make sure we could really appreciate the effort that was involved in fitting 17,000 lights to a steam train. While we had a great time riding the train, it must have brought a smile to the faces of everyone we passed!

The North Yorkshire Moors Railway is deservedly a landmark attraction for the region and it’s so much fun seeing it given a light hearted makeover for a limited event like this. The NYMR Light Spectacular really is a unique way to experience both the railway itself and the countryside through which it runs, I really can’t think of a comparable experience.

(Disclaimer – press event)

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We’d consciously waited until the New Year to start the design process in earnest in the expectation of hefty January discounts, which thankfully were fully realised as we just managed to sneak in a trip to the showroom the day before it was forced to shut again. With a deposit paid, we quickly were into the detail of the design process, collecting samples from the showroom that the salesperson was happy to drop into the boot of our car in an appropriately distanced fashion. That trip to the showroom before lockdown began gave us a good idea of the style we wanted, leaving mainly choices around colour and layout that were tackled through a virtual consultation. This used self-taken measurements of our kitchen to produce a render of the final design for the fitter to work from. As far as fitting, we decided to accept that handing that to Magnet would be the line of least resistance, turning it round in double quick time with the acceptance that it was likely to be at a premium price. With the presence of a three year old in the house, we felt that the expense would be worth it for confidence that it’d be turned around in week and coordinated by them, minimising disruption for us.

The next step was a test of nerve as the fitter came around for a pre-fit survey, checking that our measuring was at least close enough that the agreed upon design for our new Magnet kitchen would work in the space. Thankfully our numbers measured up, so to speak, and dates for delivery and installation were agreed upon. I’d little idea of the amount of space that would be needed to store an entire (non flat-packed) kitchen worth of kit and appliances, so was fairly nervous as a lorry arrived and box after box made its way into my conservatory, leaving it resembling a partially completed game of Tetris. Between that and the counter tops loitering in the hallway, the house looked fairly crowded for a few days but we just about retained access to the back door and the trip hazards on the stairs were manageable. We also relocated the fridge and kettle to the living room for a few days and arranged for now redundant appliances to go to charity. It should be noted that emptying the kitchen proved to be a predictably significant task, necessitating the sacrifice of the spare room to its contents for the duration. With all that achieved, we were ready to say goodbye to the kitchen we’d inherited upon moving into this house, which this process showed me I was surprisingly attached to after eight years of cooking.

The installation of our new Magnet kitchen began with a bit of car shuffling from our very understanding neighbours to facilitate the delivery of a skip before the fitter arrived to wreak havoc upon our unsuspecting kitchen. My lack of experience of this type of project had me a little sceptical about it being possible to turn it around in a week, but the fitter was confident and in a few short hours had devastated the old kitchen, turning the room into a shell ready to crack on with. I was a little surprised to have to pay extra to chip off the existing tiles, but double digit expenses were barely registering by now given the overall outlay.

The rest of the fitting went smoothly and was indeed completed in five days flat, leaving us with a functioning kitchen ready to be tiled by the end of the week, with the skip being removed double quick too. Mess was kept to a relative minimum and the fitter was friendly and helpful throughout. We had a minor hitch when we realised a spot we’d intended to house the cats’ litter tray would be too small, thankfully that was easily rectified as the space was perfect to slip another cupboard into, though I’m still hunting for a permanent home for the cat litter, much to the kitties’ annoyance!

The fitter worked well with the electrician, coordinating well without any need for unnecessary intervention from me, with some additional work to replace ageing light fittings undertaken without fuss for an agreed price. Most pieces of work undertaken in this house have turned up something substandard left by the previous owner, so the discovery of a few rather maverick bits of electrical work was hardly a surprise. It was a touch frustrating to have to foot the bill for rectifying this, but as it wasn’t possible to find it prior to installation it’s not something to be argued with, the electrician getting things back on par nicely.

So, after the promised five days we were indeed up and away cooking in our new Magnet kitchen with all white goods replaced by fitted items, sparkling new surfaces to fret over marking and more soft closing doors than you could shake a stick at. We were left with a minor but acceptable level of mess to deal with and were quickly into a throwing a spag’ bol together. The induction hob is proving itself monstrously powerful while usefully controllable, the oven is showing up its predecessor as rather unenthusiastic and the remaining appliances are a marked improvement on the previous incumbents in every way with one, temporary, exception.

Upon testing the dishwasher, the fitter alerted us to it sounding an error code that wouldn’t clear with any tweaks he could make. This resulted in a 12 day wait for a Zanussi engineer to attempt a fix as our Magnet sales person seemed reluctant to take ownership of the issue and replace the unit as one might reasonably demand when a supplier delivers a faulty product. When Zanussi’s engineer did visit, he pronounced it unlikely that I’d heard the error code I had, though replaced the part that would have triggered it and left proclaiming things resolved. That was certainly the case for a good few hours but was an all too transitory state, prompting a bit more to and fro between Magnet and Zanussi who had another engineer out in another 12 days. It’s unfair to get too exercised about things not landing right first time, these things happen and really it’s all about how they’re dealt with. Thankfully this time round, the fix was more effective and everything is back on track in terms of functionality, though it’s surprising and disappointing to not have received any follow up from Magnet at all either on this specific issue or our broader satisfaction with the new Magnet kitchen.

After a little wait for tiling to be started after the tiler in question was unlucky enough to become unwell for a little bit (no, not Covid) we were all finished and left to admire our finished kitchen, with which we’re extremely happy. We could certainly have completed the project for significantly smaller outlay but with a three year old in the house we really wanted someone to take ownership of the project and coordinate delivery and installation including plumbing and electrics. This was largely the case and turning the bulk of the project around in five days really helped minimise the disruption to our lives, though it’s a shame for the final interaction with Magnet to be negative. It’s naive to expect problems to never occur, but it’s frustrating to pay for what I perceived to be a premium service and not see that deliver the extra mile when something untoward occurs. Saying that, it’s a joy to cook in our new Magnet kitchen and I have no doubt you’ll be seeing it in the background of many social media posts in the coming weeks and months!

Note. I’ve steered clear of mentioning costs too much in here as it’s an unusually large kitchen for the size of house and there are so many variables. For reference though, it’s pushing £19k including 18 units and fittings, full suite of Zanussi white goods, light fitting replaced with spots, making good previously ropey electrics, cleaning and sealing the floor and a good deal of complex tiling.

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This innovative new way of navigating York uses your smartphone to direct you around the city, with a smattering of clues to force you into more detailed examination of each locale at which you pause. The beauty of this approach is that, while it’s curated and takes you round a good portion of the centre of the city, it can be enjoyed at your own pace as you interact via a text based interface with your guide, Captain Bess. Each participant can join the conversation under their chosen pseudonym and, should your group be a little more competitive than we were, race toward the correct answer at each stop.

We quickly set off from our starting point in the Museum Gardens and worked out the answer to our first question before being directed onwards toward the back of The Art Gallery. I’ll refrain from getting into too much detail about the route we took, lest the surprises be spoiled, but suffice to say it did a good job of touching on York’s greatest hits while straying into some lesser visited spots before finishing a stone’s throw from Shambles Market, to which we headed immediately afterwards for a bite to eat. We were a touch pushed for time so rattled through the experience in around an hour and a half, though that reflects a lot of local knowledge as well as a bit of time pressure. With a more appropriately relaxed attitude, this would very easily expand to a good few hours, or more depending on how many refreshment stops you want to punctuate the experience with.

Treasure Hunt York is an original way to get acquainted with the city that would work well for both tourists and residents wanting a new way to interact with their home city. The WhatsApp style chat interface lets you set your own pace and makes for a unobtrusive way to receive instructions, while enabling a good bit of intra-team banter if you’re in the mood. As travel between cities for leisure becomes more acceptable I’d certainly keep an eye out for variants based in other cities.

Ad – PR product.

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The Lamb & Lion
Often held up as the one of the best beer gardens in York and for good reason, the Lamb & Lion is a lovely pub that always has good quality cold lager as well as a few well kept handpulls, but the view from the garden really is the real draw. There’re few better places to absorb the admiring glances of tourists walking the walls while taking in the Minster’s majesty.

The Phoenix
After years of neglect, the Phoenix received a wonderfully sympathetic refurbishment in 2009 to become a beacon of jazz and real ale just inside Fishergate bar. After a couple of changes of management, the jazz continues and the range of beers is still diverse, while the paved courtyard catches the sun nicely to look inviting from the walls.

The Habit
The terrace here is another place to absorb the majesty of the Minster. The Habit offers live music, good beer and a relaxed atmosphere from its home on Goodramgate.

The Whippet
Whilst mainly known for its fantastic steaks, the Whippet on North Street functions just fine as a bar too and has a small but perfectly formed outdoor space. With artificial grass and a non smoking area, it makes a calm refuge from some other city centre bars.

Blacksmiths Arms
Feeling active? Why not hop on your bike and head south on the cycle path to Selby where you can find this garden at Naburn. After taking in the scale model of the solar system along the path, this is a superb spot to take on sustenance before tackling the comfortably flat ride back to York.

Judges Lodging
After its extensive renovation a few years ago, the Judges Lodging on Lendal has been transformed and now offers two fantastic outside spaces. While the area at the front can get extremely busy at weekends, it’s worth making your way through the bar to check out the terrace at the back of the building.

The Star Inn the City
Similarly to the Whippet, the Star’s status as a restaurant draws attention away from the fact that it has a bar available regardless of your dining plans. The terrace overlooking the River Ouse is one of the best beer gardens in York to inhabit while you enjoy Czech lager from the stunning copper tanks on show in the bar.

The City Screen
A York institution, the City Screen has been keeping us in culture and food for a couple of decades while offering performance spaces and a cosy terrace overlooking the river just off Coney Street. Competition for a table outside can be fierce so don’t relinquish one lightly! A particularly good spot to digest a mid-afternoon film viewing over a drink.

Dyls
In June 2017 Dyls reopened after flood damage, bigger and better than ever with a new three-floor capacity inside. The terrace that overlooks the Ouse by Skeldergate Bridge can lay claim to being one of the best beer gardens in York.

Brew York Tap
Brew York has really made a mark since its opening, winning awards for its superb beers and quickly becoming a buzzing place to meet up, but its plans to open up the area in front of its building represent an exciting development. With Yuzu on food duties this is bound to be one of the hottest tickets this summer.

The Fox
A little out of the centre of the city in Holgate, The Fox has a large garden served by an outside bar that’s family friendly while also attracting workers from the local offices. Occasionally you’ll find streetfood such as pizza (pictured from Dough Eyed Pizza) available too.

Fossgate Social
The Fossgate Social may not have the largest outdoor space in York but it has plenty of character tucked away at the back of this hipster hangout. The coffee served here is top notch too as is the craft beer selection.

York Tap
A train station might not be the first place you think of to enjoy a drink outside, but the outdoor area at The York Tap has a pleasing bustle of travellers with plenty of passing trains to catch the eye. It also features a huge range of well kept hand pulled ales.

Churchills Hotel
In 2020 Churchill’s Hotel on Bootham installed a series of domes in its garden to facilitate socially distanced dining. With or without them, it’s a lovely building to enjoy a drink in the shadow of.

Lysander Arms
Built on the former Clifton Aerodrome, The Lysander has a family focussed garden complete with play equipment to keep the kids busy while you eat.

Pitcher and Piano
With a terrace offering river views, The Pitcher and Piano is a happy neighbour to The City Screen and a great place to chill and relax. Keep an eye out for their bottomless brunch offers at weekends.

Spark York
The very definition of an outdoor drinking and eating space, Spark York offers a family friendly place to enjoy the weather in the company of great food and drink. The range of food and drink traders mean that there’s bound to be something for everyone.

Shambles Tavern
Merging into the activity in The Shambles Market, the outdoor space at The Shambles Tavern puts you right in the heart of the action in the city centre.

Shambles Food Court
The Shambles Food Court features some of the best streetfood traders in the city. It’s a great place to loiter with a snack and a drink. Be sure to check out food from Krep, Shambles Kitchen, Nana Noodle bar, The Taylor Made Kitchen, Los Moros and Dark Horse.

The Gillygate
Predictably found on Gillygate, this traditional pub features a sun trap beer garden that’s a secluded place to kill time and enjoy the summer.

Waggon and Horses
Serving some of the best real ale in York, a stroll out of the centre through Walmgate Bar will help you enjoy a visit to this friendly locals pub. The Waggon also offers bed and breakfast if you need a place to stay.

The White Swan
Affectionately known as The Mucky Duck, The White Swan is a fixture in central York for weekend drinkers. Its courtyard can be a lively place to visit on hot days!

The Deramore Arms
Being in Heslington, this pub is well positioned to service the academic and student population attached to the nearby university. A visit to the Deramore is made more attractive by delicious pub food on offer.

The Fulford Arms
While primarily functioning as a music venue, The Fully also boasts an enviable beer garden that attracts plenty of local families when the weather cooperates. This inclusive, welcoming space is a real asset to the York music and events scene.

The Golden Ball
This community run, traditionally laid out York pub is a Bishophill institution with good reason. The welcoming outdoor space only adds to its appeal. Keep an eye out for works from local artists that can be purchased.

The Swan
Serving the local population of Bishopthorpe Road and Clementhorpe, The Swan is a welcoming pub with community at it’s heart and a secluded outdoor space to enjoy.

The Slip
A few steps from in Clementhorpe, The Slip Inn is a tempting place into which to slip for a pint. Top notch beer, welcoming staff and an attractive outdoor space mean this isn’t one to miss.

The Ackhorne
Size doesn’t necessarily mean character, something that The Ackhorne has plenty of. Its diminutive outdoor space offers a real bolthole away from the Micklegate crowds.

Walmgate Ale House
The beer garden is a relatively recent addition to Walmgate Ale House, expanding its appeal with a secluded gravel covered area in which to enjoy its range of drinks and top notch bar snacks. The same building is also home to The Chopping Block restaurant, offering classic French dishes in this memorable former rope and tackle merchant.

1331
Often overlooked as an outdoor venue, 1331 is a friendly spot on Grape Lane spread over several floors that also offers an outdoor area from which to watch the world go by. The hotdog menu gives you something to get your teeth into.

The Sun at Colton
While it’s built its reputation on top notch food, that’s not all this pub a few miles from York has to offer. This award winning pub is a true family business, including a renowned chocolatier, Ashley McCarthy, who’s shown his skills on a number of TV programs.

Langthorpe Farm Shop
When things reopen, Langthorpe Farm Shop, near Boroughbridge, will be serving up rotisserie chicken in their garden from April 17th along with a BBQ menu.

Keystones
The Keystones, just outside Monk Bar, may not offer high end fine dining, but it’s certainly a buzzing and affordable place to eat and drink. Its garden is noteworthy thanks to being home to the remains of a Georgian ice house.

Malmaison Roof Bar
Anyone who was lucky enough to go through a training session in the board room in this building during its use as offices can attest to the quality of the views. We may be waiting for an opening date but this is bound to be a showstopper when it’s accessible.

The Saddle Fulford
The Saddle in Fulford has responded brilliantly to the events of 2020 turning itself into a grocery shop and serving its community, earning praise from none other than Tom Kerridge. Why not show your appreciation with a pint in their garden?

Tank and Paddle
This sports and craft beer bar is perched just above the Ouse by Ouse bridge, its terrace overlooking the river is a great place to unwind with a bite to eat.

Middletons
Set back from Skeldergate, this historic collection of buildings isn’t just a lovely place to stay when visiting York. It’s also a picturesque, and generally unflustered place for a moment’s quiet contemplation over a pint and a newspaper.

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Despite its proximity, I’ve never spent a huge amount of time in the Dales, though I’ve enough familiarity to construct a half decent itinerary without too much thought. We chose Appletreewick on a bit of a whim to use as a base and ended up locating ourselves in a small cottage within the grounds of a farm that gave easy access to a variety of animals on which Baby Fork could hone her creature identifications.

Appletreewick is a tiny village by the River Wharfe not far from Grassington and Pateley Bridge in the south of the Yorkshire Dales that doesn’t count masses of convenience to its name. In normal times it lacks a shop of any kind but the expanded breadth of a business’s focuses at the moment meant that the local pub was happy to sort us out with a few staples to supplement those provided by our kind host. Bread, butter and milk paled into insignificance next to the presence of 24 hour old ducklings tucked in the corner of a barn under a hot lamp. Rest assured these were the subject of regular check ups throughout the week as Baby Fork kept a careful eye on their progress.

One of the Appletreewick’s main attractions is The Craven Arms, a landmark pub that piqued my interest over a decade ago thanks to a TV series purporting to divine the best pint in Yorkshire via the medium of a beer festival in the Craven Arms. While the Cruck Barn that hosted that beer festival and gives the pub a good chunk of its character might be off limits at the moment, the feel of the place is quite intact along with the quality of the beer and pub grub. The other pub in the village is The New Inn, with which I’m less familiar but I know boasts a storied history as a mountain biking hub thanks to the efforts of former landlord John Pitcher, who I believe has been able to embark on a career as a professional cyclist after recovering from serious injuries sustained in a collision with a car while training.

A necessary characteristic of travel at the moment is a touch more forethought than I would typically apply to a holiday so a trip to Skipton passed by without recourse to much in the way of tourist attractions. We still had a lovely stroll around the pretty canal and took in a few sights of the castle to justify the trip before popping to Keelham Farm Shop for provisions, though its intended role as a lunch stop was a bit of a failure thanks to that previously mentioned lack of planning as I’d not checked the opening hours.

One thing that I had managed to plan for was a trip to The Forbidden Corner which bills itself as The Strangest Place in The World. While that may be sliding toward embellishment, it’s certainly one of the strangest places in Yorkshire and represents the kind of day out that parents use children as an excuse to go on. This quite delightfully daft folly makes use of unexpected water jets, stepping stones, dead ends and perspective tricks to craft a thoroughly unique experience. Pre-booking is essential here, though the promised restriction on the number of attendees didn’t leave it as sparsely populated as I’d anticipated.

The next day we decided to pay a visit to “Yorkshire’s Favourite Pub”, The Lister Arms at Malham which earned that accolade from Welcome to Yorkshire in 2019. I’d tried their steak and ale pie, for which they’re renowned, at a demonstration from the head chef last year so was keen to grab another of those to rekindle that memory. We also opted for some globe artichoke and asparagus gnocchi for the other main while a smaller portion of chicken took care of the smallest appetite at the table. We also enjoyed a platter of snacks to be picked at in the background throughout, honey & mustard chipolatas in particular prompting a keen debate on how to best share most fairly. We paired the trip to the Lister Arms with the opportunity to call into The Courtyard Dairy and pick up some top quality cheeses. This legendary establishment supplies many of the North’s finest restaurants as well as being open to the public, even offering a cheese vending machine for round-the-clock access to quality cheeses.

A power cut on the final morning of our break was hardly the end of the world (or fault of the owner), though the lack of tea did feel a bit like it at the time as we packed the car and said our goodbyes to the ever-more-vocal ducklings. Having not spent a night away from home since the beginning of February it certainly felt a bit jarring to be away from home for a week, not that it would compromise our enjoyment of the visit at all. Really the only significant difference to the trip was the need for a bit more pre-booking, something I tackled with evident mixed success, so while foreign travel looks like a bit of a pain for the foreseeable future, I’m looking forward to finding more corners of the UK to explore.

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