Previously home to an Indian restaurant, the new location is a much larger space than the space Corner Grill House previously occupied and has been subjected to a meticulous renovation that’s turned it into an invitingly lit and super-stylish dining space. The breadth of the wine list is obvious from the number of bottles adorning the shelving around the room and with stylish but understated furniture all this comes together to produce a lovely calming dining room with a real sense of occasion. The menu features plenty of traditional dishes but makes a feature of the selection of steaks as well as featuring a number of rich starters that catch the eye. We decided to go for broke and over-order to make sure we got a broad selection of what was on offer, taking home the leftovers of course. I’m never quite sure why people are embarrassed to ask for this, do you think chefs enjoy seeing their hard work scraped off a plate into the bin?

A sharing board of three starters gives plenty of opportunity to make inroads into the starters with lamb kofta, garlic prawns and baked mushrooms forming an appetising trio when served with generous amounts of bread and side salad. I’d happily recommend any of the three that we enjoyed, all generous and rich with no weak spots on the board. The kofta was tender and with a well balanced spicing that didn’t threaten to overwhelm its companions, while the baked mushrooms didn’t skimp on the cheese, which had just started to caramelise on top for an extra punch of flavour. Prawns were given extra appeal from a creamy, white wine and cream sauce with a fresh dusting of parsley lightening things to complete a satisfying start to the meal.

The theme of over-ordering continued with main dishes as I wilted under Radek’s suggestions to try three things and we agreed on ox cheek, pork tomahawk and sirloin steak. We opted for chips to accompany the steak and a salad to go with the pork, though of course they were distributed between the plates at our whim anyway. Ox cheek was accompanied by creamy mash and a generous quantity of small onions with some parsnip crisps for texture and pea shoots to temper this rich dish. Ox cheek really rewards a long, slow cook and the preposterously soft and unctuous texture this example delivered was outstanding. Butter-rich mash brought more luxury and sharp pops from the pearls of onion punctuated the richness neatly. I’m a competent home cook and know how to do justice to a decent cut of meat, something which can be mysteriously lacking in some restaurants. The evidence here puts Corner Grill House firmly on my trusted list with the sirloin cooked perfectly and obviously from a quality supplier. Pork matched up well with a rewarding depth of flavour and tender consistency that stood up for itself against the quality of the steak well. A bold Malbec from the well-appointed wine list was perfect to accompany all this

Corner Grill House has always been a reliable spot to enjoy cuts of meat that are prepared with care and cooked to realise their potential and the King Street location just serves to even further elevate the experience thanks to the relaxed ambience and characterful interior. Service is worth a mention too as the balance of showing attentiveness without pestering was perfectly hit too. It’s been a pleasure watching Radek grow this business over the years and it has a real spring in its step now that should sustain it for many years. We were very full and happy as we strolled home replete with leftovers.

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Making your way into Betty’s feels undeniably special with a pianist gently plinking away in the background and smart servers moving with purpose and grace, though no unseemly urgency. The menu hits across a number of Bettys staples with rosti, rarebit and schnitzel both featuring prominently amongst dishes I’ve enjoyed at Bettys on prior visits. Dishes draw together the Swiss origins of the company, which took seed in Yorkshire. Of these we went for rarebit and mushroom pate to start followed by bacon and raclette rosti, and haddock, salmon and prawn gratin.

Mushroom pate had the gentle, earthy notes that one would hope for and a pleasing crunch from the slices of toast accompanying it. The rarebit was presented as a puddle of molten cheese accented by tomato halves and a few basil leaves. The cheese had a nice tang of mustard and was broadened in appeal by the Yorkshire Ale it’s cooked with, while the toasted bread gave texture. A rosti is a comforting thing as long as its cooking is judged well, producing a caramelised exterior while not robbing the centre of too much moisture. Thankfully everything was on track here with bacon and raclette joined by cream and gruyere for a rich and indulgent dish. The seafood gratin was just as luxurious feeling and packed in plenty of the promised haddock, salmon and prawns along with more of that rosti. We couldn’t resist a slice of chocolate cake to finish things off; it would seem somehow churlish to visit Bettys without eating some sweet, so we forced ourselves to share a slice of the chocolate cake, topping things off nicely.

With so much history to draw on, York has a multitude of attractions and experiences to enjoy. While there’s always space for more to join the fun, it’s nice to see such iconic institutions as Bettys continue to thrive as the world changes around it. In rather discomfiting times it’s a relief to escape into somewhere as reassuringly unchanged as this and see it retain its place in the York hospitality scene with so much confidence.

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Tykes at Sandburn Hall itself is an airy and relaxed space with plenty of comfortable seating, as well as an outdoor space where some dogs were happily being exercised during our visit. We had a semi-circular booth to eat in, which let Little Fork indulge her mischievous side as she peeked over the back of it to spy on our fellow diners. The menu presents a decent range of choices, with a couple of fish and vegetarian options alongside meat dishes. I find it hard to resist a scallop, so that ended up as one half of the starters alongside a game terrine, both of which were at the table after an appropriate pause to take delivery of drinks. The sweet scallop was accented nicely by the bacon jam and given a touch of sharpness from the pickled shallot rings that adorned it, while the dill notes in the cream sauce added freshness. This wasn’t reinventing the wheel unnecessarily, and was well executed and delicious. The game terrine came enrobed in leek and topped with gently pickled baby carrots with crisps of brioche for texture, as well as elements featuring sage and prune. The earthy notes all came through strongly, and I liked the coarse texture of the terrine, all of which added up to another solid dish doing a good job of showcasing what it promised.

From the ten or so main dishes on offer we plumped for one fish and one meat, with chicken and salmon supremes pushing their respective chests through the tape first. The chicken supreme came with confit onion, onion puree and pomme Anna with some broccoli for a fresh note. Tender chicken did the job nicely and there were notes of truffle to enjoy but the star was the onion; simple things cooked nicely are always going to do it for me. The salmon teamed up with well constructed lemon and dill gnocchi, hemispheres of courgette and a creme fraiche-based sauce coming up with a well resolved balance of freshness and indulgence. With a Bar Billiards match to get back to in the centre of York, we didn’t linger long but did have time to put away affogato for dessert.

All the dishes we had were well conceived with a few points of difference to catch the eye while making good use of quality produce. The restaurant setting is relaxing while the broader offering of the grounds also makes for a nice place to walk off an indulgent meal. The ample free parking also makes for a compelling reason to visit if you live to the north of York Centre given the ever-increasing cost of parking in the city these days. Tykes at Sandburn Hall has a lot going for it.

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I’ve long been a fan of Middletons York and felt it rather unappreciated as a place to eat and drink in York, though having got married there some years ago I’m perhaps a touch biased. I’ve eaten there a good few times though and it’s always been solid but now they’ve taken things up a notch, focussing on the restaurant and launching an entirely new menu that eschews the hotel restaurant standards in favour of something much more interesting. Yorkshire Tapas effectively means a menu of small plates that are delivered to the table as and when they’re ready for service. We were advised to pick three or four each so hedged our bets and ordered seven, bearing in mind that this style of menu lends itself easily to appending a dish or two if you feel the need.

Everything Lishman’s of Ilkley make is pretty peerless so a bowl of their Yorkshire Chorizo in red wine and honey reduction was first to be ticked off the list, arriving quickly. In all honesty, it would have been a feat to make this disappointing but the gentle chorizo spice paired with the rich sauce nicely and let the quality of the meat come through. Monkfish cheeks were crispy and with a satisfying chew and a curry sauce which was a bit more aggressive than the descriptor used on the menu, but cautious application of the sauce balanced things back up. Fountains Gold cheese donuts were next to arrive, liberally topped with more grated cheese and with a warm soft centre making a quality bar snack.

Cubes of pork belly with pistachio and a cider reduction were rich and with a sweet tang that leant into the indulgence of this cut of meat perfectly but the true star of the meat dishes was onglet steak served in a parsley and mustard marinade. This cut rewards cooking quickly to serve pretty rare and delivers a deep, meaty flavour with notes of game. It’s a fabulous value cut with a strong personality and coming in at £7.50 represents a bargain on this menu – don’t miss it if you call by. To the side of all this meat and cheese we went for broccoli served with crispy garlic and “dirty” hasselback potatoes, earning that claim of besmirchment thanks to a topping of rich cheese sauce as well as an optional scattering of bacon.

The whole Yorkshire tapas thing runs the risk of dropping into lazy cliche and northern stereotype if not executed with care and a bit of originality, potentially ending up looking like a ploughman’s that’s generating an unnecessary amount of washing up. At Middletons York though every dish hit the brief with Yorkshire produce ably showcased across a range of dishes that put the produce front and centre while elevating them subtly. That onglet steak in particular will draw me back before long!

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Named after The family home of Winston Churchill, Chartwell, and with menus given designations based on his preferred cigars and drinks the marketing here invites you to expect the unexpected… Opting to avoid an excess of intrigue we broke the wax seals and buckled up for the “Romeo” 7 course menu, taking its name from the Romeo y Julieta cigar of Winnie’s preference. One of the first things to draw the eye and most striking features of the dining area is a large screen embedded in a mirror that shows a variety of angles from the kitchen, acting as a subtly voyeuristic twist on an open kitchen viewed through a looking glass. The rest of the dining room is bright and welcoming with an expansive (and indeed expensive) feel amplified by slightly reflective table surfaces and swathes of books, which would feature later in our evening. First up was the customary round of snacks: in this instance featuring Lincolnshire poacher, sea trout and allium across a delicate tart; a nori wrapped parcel; and dressed trout. Delicate additions of emulsions, herbs and the odd bit of dehydrated crunch helped them all stand out and make a strong start to proceedings in advance of a bread course. Cheddar brioche with whipped roasted chicken butter sounds like an easy way to win me over, and so it proved. It was nice to see a relatively conservatively portioned bread course too; filling up on bread when there’s so many memorable dishes in prospect being an occupational hazard that can lead to a distressing waste of bread.

Steak tartare came and said its hellos next, using caviar and smoked eel to accent the perfectly uniform dice of meat as well as a small scattering of peppery nasturtium. I’m not sure what it says about me that I’m drawn to raw meat in such a way but this example will stay with me for some time. Barbecue scallop was next on stage showcasing a heady char of caramelisation against buttery scallop sweetness, apple notes and earthy cauliflower. After the tartare, this was another open goal confidently taken!

Next up was the meat course, centred around duck with plentiful notes of truffle as well as asparagus for freshness and lightly pickled mushrooms. The duck cookery was perfect with the fat rendered, skin crisped and flesh still pink and the elements served alongside it complemented rather than clashed with the duck. The pair of sweet dishes on which the menu ended focussed on passion fruit and strawberry with the former represented by a bite-sized, delicate tart and the latter a wide range of textures with the cheesecake element being particularly memorable.

Having finished our meal, we set about having a good nosey around the facilities, taking in the impressive amount of investment that has resulted in a wide range of dining options in addition to the higher end offering of Chartwell. The final surprise of the night came when someone emerged from behind the bookshelves I’d been noting earlier, an entire section of them swinging open without any external hint that they were movable! Making a beeline to check it out I found an entire other lounge bar tucked away. I guess they were right about expecting the unexpected! Fine dining restaurants in an estate such as this can be difficult to differentiate themselves from the competition but Chartwell at Aldwark Manor has done an effective job, not just delivering refined and well conceived food with a recognisable identity but also a dining space with personality.

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The hotel itself was welcoming in the typical comfortably upmarket style of places like this but walking into Amber’s Restaurant is a distinct and impressive experience. They’ve also spent the time and money to bring what was a large corridor right up to date which will function as a buffet or mingling space but the private dining room is even more striking. Some private dining spaces can feel a little tokenistic or an addendum to the main space but there’s nothing of the sort here. Sofas and subtly included TVs fill some of the sprawl of this space which feels homely and comforting without losing that sense of luxury and indulgence. One could easily fill an entire day of meals here with a family or group of friends, periodically retiring across the room to relax.

As a steady buzz of Instagrammers (is that the collective term?) worked the room over we took on a brace of starters, which had been chosen for us. Citrus cured salmon with crispy capers and beetroot along with a heavily seasoned cream was well executed and benefitted from the sharp hit of those capers to bring drama to the soft ribbons of salmon. Beetroot and salmon being a well trodden path for good reason, this was a well concieved plate that could have been further lifted with a crunch of a sourdough crisp or similar for texture, as was found on the other starter of home corned beef brisket. The brisket had a pleasing richness to be tempered by pickled vegetables and a few baby potatoes, a reassuring pair of starters.

For mains we went for stone bass and duck breast, both comforting dishes with a good mellow sense of nostalgia and indulgence. The duck came with fondant potato which easily yielded to my cutlery with buttery smoothness as well as sweet carrot and a sweet blackberry jus. A few more blackberries on the plate and a bed of baby spinach finished the dish off. The success of a plate such as this really depends on the execution of the duck, which must be pink and well rested with the fat layer adequately rendered but not at the expense of overcooked skin. This example walked that line nicely, showing a deft touch from the chef that was a suitable centrepiece for this well put together dish; the fondant potato also being another potential pitfall avoided. The stone bass came with a few greens and potatoes but the sauce really starred on this, with a lustrous and creamy indulgence cut against pops of freshness from peas. The stone bass itself showed the same skilled touch as the duck, making for a pair of well executed main courses.

A pair of desserts featuring various sweet textures, with shards, brownie, parfait and fruit spread across a couple of plates finished things off nicely, the sugar rush jerking us away from somnambulance ready for the journey home. Amber’s Restaurant delivers a range of classic dishes that are satisfying and confidently put together, served in a beautiful new dining room. It’s easy to feel a sense of occasion in surroundings as refined as this.

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A few years ago I was lucky enough to cover the launch of the 30th Anniversary edition of the Mazda MX-5 which took place in the Cotswolds at Caffeine & Machine, a motoring themed cafe that turns the car park into one of the main attractions thanks to the number of quality machines that attend. The Motorist mines a similar vein, with my Volvo family car not drawing much attention as we arrive and park near a Ferrari and a well preserved MK1 Toyota MR2. The Arnage has a large expanse of glass along the side that had been opened up as we arrived, letting in the sun and allowing you to inspect the car park more easily. Regardless of the bifolds being open it’s an expansive and light space, with a vintage car parked by the welcome desk of course. As always I’d made a thorough traverse of the menu before arriving so we were able to quickly focus on taking in the timber framed building and enjoying a cold drink.

Wood pigeon doesn’t appear on menus nearly enough so was an obvious candidate which was joined by an olive and tomato tian with lovage which piqued my interest. The pigeon paired nicely with rhubarb and a few bitter chicory leaves which took a knife to the gamey tang in the tender pigeon. Further balance in the dish was given by honey granola which took on a dual role, balancing bitterness while also adding texture. The tian, topped with crisps of bread, was augmented with a pea and spinach sauce at the table for freshness and made for a light and enjoyable dish that would bear re-ordering.

Little Fork’s chicken and chips arrived with pragmatic speed to keep her occupied while our mains were quick to arrive too, with lamb and sea bream winning the competition from the centre section of the menu. The fillet of sea bream topped a fine shallot and tomato tart and was in turn topped with a generous quenelle of black olive tapenade which seasoned the other elements of the dish well. Lamb was served rather rare, maybe worth noting if that’s something you might struggle with, and alongside a spiced lamb pressing, roasted apricot and okra to form a relatively unusual dish in these parts. Shot through with with zingy spices, the pressed lamb and the rare rump were quite the contrast and transacted neatly with the okra and apricot to make up a dish redolent of the middle east but not too challenging for our English palates. My habit for dessert recently has been increasingly toward creme brûlée and the example served up at The Arnage at The Motorist did its job in bringing the meal to a sweet conclusion, throwing in some raspberries as well as a bit of sorrel for an original note.

The Motorist is an impressively broad operation, equally able to sell you some pick n’ mix or a bacon butty while you admire the metal in the car park or turn out an impressive seasonal dinner such as this one, which also kept the junior member of the party happy too. It’s a little out of the way but completely justifies the short hop from York to check out what it has to offer; I’m thinking Sunday lunch would be a good excuse even if my Volvo is never going to be the pick of the car park.

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I’ve related before my history with the Malmaison building, in which I endured a rather grinding role in financial services, but the transformation really is quite dramatic when you enter at street level. Opening impressions as you ascend to the roof remain strong and the vista that presents itself as you make your way onto the terrace is quite something, also surprisingly well weatherproofed. With the focus of the visit being on the trio of Spring specials, they were obviously first to hit the order sheet and quickly augmented with other favourites numbering fried cauliflower, tuna tataki and scallops. My companion was quickly provided with a Ichigo Spritz, one of the spring special cocktails, featuring vodka and sake, while I took on a glass of Asahi to pair with the view.

My love for the Korean fried cauliflower with Gochujang here is well established and this iteration of it did nothing to discourage that, with the earthy cauliflower picking away beautifully at the gochujang heat, and scallops with a light touch of citrus ponzu and a nose-tickle of wasabi are a thing of great pleasure. Similarly tuna tataki with a good touch of soy and a spot of puffed rice for texture was another well put together dish that bears repeat ordering comfortably.

As for the Sora York Spring specials, lamb cutlets stood out as an easy win and the courgette tempura they were served with would have stood scrutiny in isolation. The promised tahini wasn’t as prominent as I’d hoped but that didn’t detract in the least from these beautifully prepared lamb cutlets. Next up was duck maki that used the duck to top rolled sushi which encased pickled watermelon to intriguing effect and popped some hoi sin into the mix too. Last up was a dish of sushi rice topped with pickled cucumber and dots of smoked mackerel that was fresh and delicious without managing to top those lamb cutlets that were still firmly lodged in my tastebuds.

Cocktails aren’t really my thing so my dining companion put herself out to also sample a Shun Smash from the Spring specials which was as well received as her earlier choice and a great way to round out the evening. Sora is a unique addition to the York hospitality scene and the confluence of view, quality food and attentive service is more than enough to demand repeat visits. A few seasonal dishes thrown into the mix just adds another reason to come back!

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Pho is a group of around 30 restaurants who specialise, predictably enough, in Pho – a Vietnamese dish that brings together noodles and a choice of ingredients in a spiced broth for the recipient to slurp away at. The menu at Pho Vietnamese York obviously doesn’t stop there though and has a good range of noodles, rice and curry dishes too. On arriving, it’s evident that a lot of work has gone into making this slightly awkwardly laid-out building into a more usable prospect with several dining areas and flights of stairs to catch out the servers as well as an outdoor space. The Friday lunchtime on which we attended had a nice buzz going on and we were happily seated in the window for optimal people watching, also saying hi to several groups of friends who were also evidently checking out this new spot. The interior is fairly minimalist but after having a good look around the building it was obvious that any rough edges left by the previous occupants had been smoothed and the refurbishment comprehensive.

After attending the soft opening a few weeks ago I had a good idea of what the menu looked like so ordering was out of the way swiftly and we were dipping prawn crackers in sweet chilli sauce while enjoying a cold beer before we knew it. While the menu is structured to include starters, I prefer to have everything arrive as it comes for greatest grazing flexibility with this style of meal with meatballs and squid being chosen to augment crab noodle soup and classic chicken curry. Pork meatballs with a big kick of lemongrass were a pleasure to dip in peanut sauce and generously portioned and baby squid were well cooked and with a light batter that responded nicely to a good squeeze of lime and a bit of torn coriander.

As requested, both the mains arrived while we were merrily picking our way through the starters and looked the part…even arriving with aprons which would temper my unerring ability to immediately drop food on myself. The classic Vietnamese chicken curry packed a well-judged punch of heat that was just enough to catch one’s attention without being too challenging for those with less tolerance. It also lived up to its billing as rich and fragrant with plenty of coconut, garlic and lemongrass ensuring this hit all the notes I expected to deliver all the zing and freshness I’d hoped. When I came to the soft opening I’d made sure to try one of the titular Pho so had a good idea of what to expect as I donned my PPE and dived into the crab noodle soup. This one used beef and tofu to bring out the best of crab and tomato broth that was a pleasure to slurp my way through, besmirching that apron in the process to the great relief of my laundry pile. To introduce another variable, each Pho is served with a side plate of herbs that can be used to nudge the broth toward personal preference, amounting to loads of coriander in my own but you can choose from generous amounts of mint, chilli and so on.

I’ve really enjoyed both the meals I’ve had at Pho. It feels to me that it hits a great balance between originality, value, flavour and accessibility that sits really well in the current climate with enough authenticity to encourage repeat visits and costs that allow that. Will that be enough to make Pho Vietnamese York a longer term success in this location? They’re certainly doing everything right to give themselves the best possible chance, and the number of food-loving friends I’ve bumped into there or heard about visiting suggests a good level of engagement. You’ll actually find me back there tomorrow!

(Disclaimer – meal for PR purposes)

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22 Yards Wine Bar & Merchants
Enjoy a charcuterie board of specialist cured meats or a cheese board from the menu and a glass of wine for just £20pp. Offer available from Tuesday to Thursday, from 12pm to 5pm. Limited selection of wines available.

Café 21 York
Enjoy 2 courses from the set menu for just £15pp. Offer available Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 4:30pm.

Chopping Block @ Walmgate Ale House
Enjoy 2 courses from the set menu for just £20pp (starter & main), add dessert for just £4. Offer available Tuesday and Wednesday from 5pm until close. Thurs, Friday and Sat from 12pm until close.

Corner Grill House Restaurant
Enjoy any 2 courses from the normal menu (a main and starter or main and dessert) for just 20pp. Offer available during opening hours from Monday to Thursday and Sunday. Excluding premium steaks from the grill section.

Drake’s Fish & Chips
Enjoy 2 Courses from the set menu and a soft drink, beer, or glass of house wine for just £20pp. Offer available everyday day during opening hours.

Forest Restaurant @ Galtres Lodge
Enjoy 2 flat iron steaks and a bottle of house wine for 2 to share for just £20. Offer available Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 5pm. Pre-booking is required.

Los Moros
Enjoy any 3 small plates from our menu for just £15pp. £3 supplements for the King Prawns al pil-pil applies. Offer available Tuesday to Friday, for lunch and evening dining during opening hours

Malmaison
Enjoy a Japanese bento box & a glass of prosecco for just £20pp. Offer available Wednesday to Friday, from 12pm to 5pm. Pre-booking is required via telephone 01904 946071.

The Larder Club
Enjoy breakfast and a hot drink for just £10pp. Offer available Tuesday – Sunday (Closed Monday). Excludes platters.

The Star Inn The City
Enjoy 2 courses from the Market Menu for just £20pp. Offer available Monday to Friday from 12pm to 3pm.

The Taylor Made Kitchen
Enjoy any small loaded fries, or nachos, or mac & cheese for just £5. Offer available Monday to Thursday and Sunday from 12pm until 4pm, and Friday to Saturday from 12pm until 8pm. Subject to availability.

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