Hotel Archives - York on a Fork https://yorkonafork.com/tag/hotel/ The best food, drink and lifestyle in York Thu, 30 Nov 2023 16:42:27 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.5 https://yorkonafork.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/cropped-yoaf_favicon-32x32.png Hotel Archives - York on a Fork https://yorkonafork.com/tag/hotel/ 32 32 Malmaison https://yorkonafork.com/2023/11/30/malmaison/ Thu, 30 Nov 2023 16:42:26 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=24547 (ad – pr) Since it opened I’ve made a number of trips to the Malmaison in the centre of York which is housed in a former insurance office that for so many years was a beacon of mundanity and grey. I can attest to that being the case on the basis of having worked there…

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(ad – pr) Since it opened I’ve made a number of trips to the Malmaison in the centre of York which is housed in a former insurance office that for so many years was a beacon of mundanity and grey. I can attest to that being the case on the basis of having worked there but it’s utterly transformed now into a bright, stylish and modern building fully deserving of its enhanced standing. Sora up on the roof offers incredible views and a unique experience while the bar and Chez Mal York on the ground floor make up a more conventional food and drink offering. I called by back in April to check it out but the team recently got in touch to suggest a repeat visit and to take a look at their new menu.

At the risk of repeating myself, Chez Mal York occupies that ground floor of the building with views across Rougier Street. Not perhaps the most salubrious view in York but a unique one which will be enhanced when Hooting Owl open their distillery experience on the other side of the road in due course. There’s a good buzz to the place and the servers are attentive without overstepping so it was a quick interaction to get our order in and settle in for the ride. The menu now has a large grill section centred around burgers and steaks as well as a selection of mains, desserts and sides. I’d been eyeing up roasted beets to start while my companion went for saute tiger prawns to be followed by braised ox cheek and a roasted celeriac dish with pearl barley, though I was also curious to see how they would execute the listed root vegetable chowder.

My roasted heritage beetroots benefited from a good tickle of dill to leaven their earthy nature as well as a generous hit of pickled shallot that amplified the sharpness of the whipped feta on which it was served, while a few sprigs of lettuce visually broke up the dish. I nabbed a tiger prawn from the other side of the table, strictly for quality control of course, and found a pleasing char to butt up against the sweet prawn and freshness of the chermoula.

Mains followed at a decent interval with braised ox cheek first to touch down and featuring a generous serving of rich, creamy mash on which was perched a good whack of tender meat that in turn was topped with carrots. Crispy onion and an unctuous jus finished things off to make this feel the indulgence it should. Beef cheek is a much underrated cut and surprisingly easy to prepare if you’re happy to put a bit of time and thought into it, which was happily the case here. The celeriac dish which had piqued my curiosity turned out to be a wise investment that placed chunks of roasted celeriac under a heap of pearl barley with sautéed mushrooms for breadth, while parmesan and crispy shallots added depth. As with ox cheek, celeriac seems to intimidate people when it really needn’t and it can be the heart of a really satisfying veggie dish as it was here.

As usual I would have been happy to sidestep dessert, but my companion fancied a few bites so we shared a well executed creme brûlée that put a sugary accent on the evening and perked me up as we headed off. I thoroughly enjoyed this repeat visit to Chez Mal York and would be more than happy to find this as the dining option at any hotel that would have me. I’ll be back at Sora in a few weeks too for a look at their winter specials, and I’ll look forward to being back in the building the now it’s devoid of corporate tedium!

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Leetham’s Brasserie at Elm Bank https://yorkonafork.com/2023/06/04/leethams-brasserie-at-elm-bank/ Sun, 04 Jun 2023 17:35:56 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=24052 (ad – pr) Whenever I think I have a handle on all of the best buildings in York it feels like another contender looms into view all ready to wow me again. The concentration of landmark buildings within the city walls is practically endless and there’re plenty of examples around the wider city such as…

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(ad – pr) Whenever I think I have a handle on all of the best buildings in York it feels like another contender looms into view all ready to wow me again. The concentration of landmark buildings within the city walls is practically endless and there’re plenty of examples around the wider city such as Goddard’s and, further afield, Beningbrough Hall, but one which has slipped past me so far is The Elm Bank Hotel. This building looks down on Tadcaster Road from its junction with Love Lane and I hadn’t realised quite what a remarkable interior it possessed and how beautifully it had been brought back to life in a 2019 refurbishment. Prior to that I’ve heard it was some distance from its full potential and it would seem that the news of its refurbishment got somewhat lost in the maelstrom of news we’ve endured in the last few years. Dinner in Leetham’s Brasserie at Elm Bank was the perfect opportunity to take a closer look.

I first clapped eyes on that interior last summer when I was calling by for a meeting and recently I had the opportunity to really take it in while having a good look through the food offering. The building was redesigned in 1898 by Mackintosh contemporary George Walton, and that’s evident throughout with the whole restaurant, bar and downstairs littered with impressive stained-glass, beautiful murals and detailed stencils. We started in the bar with a drink to take in the surroundings, noting that the bar is open to non-residents and would be an easy way to have a nosey around the spectacular interior. We then moved through to Leetham’s Brasserie at Elm Bank to have a proper look at the menu and let the food distract us from the setting. We chose scallop and asparagus dishes to start with which would be followed by sea bass and chicken schnitzel, though dining as a group of nine for this event the scallop dish certainly took a lot of people’s fancy and was an obvious favourite!

A well judged char on the asparagus spears gave a pleasing hint of bitterness to the first starter to arrive, with purple potatoes also on the plate and piquant mustard dressing to liven things up. Asparagus doesn’t need too much mucking about with and the restrained approach taken here let it speak for itself, making a fresh and zingy starter. Similarly a scallop subjected to too much augmentation on a plate is a sad thing, thankfully here though just with bacon and pea puree to add salt and freshness. Mains followed on quickly with purple potatoes reappearing underneath a sea bass fillet and more asparagus pulling duty on top of chicken schnitzel that used crispy capers for a spike of flavour and a brown butter aioli in which to dip triple fried chips. Those chips were a real treat and, with the schnitzel and dip, turned into an indulgent and satisfying dish with the capers bringing welcome sharpness and asparagus bringing a light touch. The sea bass was well cooked and presented with a brown shrimp beurre blanc that would have only been improved by being present in greater quantity. Purple potatoes are often unpleasantly floury but the ones on this plate were cooked well enough to avoid that fate so this was another enjoyable dish. As is so often the case my appetite wasn’t quite up to dessert, though I was due on the other side of town for another engagement anyway which made it time to stop proceedings.

As with so many restaurants in hotels, Leetham’s Brasserie at Elm Bank is subject to a minor stigma which makes it all too easily avoided by locals, for no good reason. The menu is well priced and executed, giving enough reason to call by in itself but the building really sells the deal. The opportunity to enjoy a meal in such grand surrounds is not one that should be easily passed up, and is one that should be taken up in particular by the large swathes of York within walking distance.

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Malmaison Bar & Grill https://yorkonafork.com/2023/04/28/malmaison-bar-grill/ Fri, 28 Apr 2023 07:12:51 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=23990 (Ad – PR visit) York has recently developed a rather disturbing habit of tearing down buildings only to rebuild something of equally debatable merit on the same site. Older more notable buildings are obviously protected from this trend but, with the welcome exception of Stonebow, it’s rare to see some of the less well conceived…

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(Ad – PR visit) York has recently developed a rather disturbing habit of tearing down buildings only to rebuild something of equally debatable merit on the same site. Older more notable buildings are obviously protected from this trend but, with the welcome exception of Stonebow, it’s rare to see some of the less well conceived modern buildings given much of a glow up. The former Yorkshire House is a fantastic exception to this though, turned from a rather dispiriting insurance office (I can personally attest to this) to a thoroughly modern hotel complete with all the facilities you’d expect with bar, gym, spa, Starbucks, meeting spaces, the Sora Sky Bar and of course a restaurant in the form of Malmaison Bar & Grill at Malmaison York.

It’s really quite hard to overstate how much of a journey this building has been on. Other than an impressive wood panelled boardroom, it was festooned with meeting rooms formed of miserably thin walls and ‘motivational’ posters. Guests won’t get a hint of that now though as they enter to a brightly lit, split-level foyer which does a good job of naturally sign-posting guests toward the relevant bit of the building, Malmaison Bar & Grill for us on this occasion. This overlooks what will become the Roman Quarter in due course and is situated just past the bar if you fancy an aperitif. The menu has plenty of bistro staples such as burgers and steaks as well as some more adventurous options which, naturally, my companion and I were drawn to.

With a very drinkable bottle of house (‘maison?) white on the table we were quickly onto our starters which variously featured scallops, beetroot and salmon. Three plump scallops made up one of the dishes and were presented in their shell atop a lightly pickled slaw and a hint of miso and lime butter. Those accoutrements could have been a touch punchier but I’m unlikely to argue too hard in the face of delicious shellfish. Salmon and beetroot is a well trod combination for good reason and this starter was a great example of why. Slightly bitter endive gave a welcome extra element to offset the sharpness of the pickled beetroot and light smokiness of the hot smoked salmon and horseradish cream was also welcome.

Moving onto mains, first to the table was seared sesame crusted tuna with bok-choi and a chilli, ginger and lime dressing. After getting over an initial hint of shock at the amount of tuna I was enjoying myself and finding all the fresh, light flavours I had hoped for. This was a serious chunk of tuna served fairly rare, fine with me but one to be aware of for those less comfortable with rare meat, though I had no worries as to its cooking. The rack of ribs that graced the other side of the table fulfilled all of the recipient’s desires to get sticky fingered and stuck in, the bones easily slipping out to leave succulent and smoky meat that was given relief by another light slaw. On our server’s advice we had ordered a truffled spinach gratin to pair with the ribs which exhibited a sensible amount of truffle against the earthy spinach.

Dessert had to be a shared concern after those hefty portions of tuna and ribs and the 15 minute pause necessitated by selecting the Valrhona chocolate molten pudding gave a further pause in which to recover our composure. When it arrived this was red hot (molten even), gooey, rich and powerful with chocolate for a real sense of indulgence. Salted caramel ice cream on the side lightened things effectively and would be further improved by a bolder punch of salt to further offset the richness of the chocolate.

Chocolate

By now I’d largely forgotten the interminable workshops and inductions that this structure was previously home to, a strong testament to both the repurposed meeting and the meal we’d enjoyed. Malmaison brings a striking new hotel to York in place of a dour office block and augments it with a good restaurant, chilled out bar and a unique sky bar. Seems like a pretty good deal to me.

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The Refectory https://yorkonafork.com/2023/04/21/the-refectory-2/ Fri, 21 Apr 2023 09:43:04 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=23926 The Principal Hotel right next to York train station is one of the most striking buildings in York and a grand sight for visitors to arrive to. In years gone by it had been somewhat neglected to the point that I resented when its meeting rooms were booked by a previous employer! That’s long in…

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The Principal Hotel right next to York train station is one of the most striking buildings in York and a grand sight for visitors to arrive to. In years gone by it had been somewhat neglected to the point that I resented when its meeting rooms were booked by a previous employer! That’s long in the past though since a full restoration was undertaken in 2015 which successfully took this building back to the grandeur it deserves. As one of the most iconic hotels in York, it clearly needs a dining offering to match its standing, which is where The Refectory York comes in.

The Refectory is a restaurant housed in a glass structure sympathetically attached to the side of the Principal Hotel which looks toward the train station and has a relaxed, airy feel. Thankfully in my experience it has always been a comfortable and temperate place to sit despite those expanses of glass and it was starting to fill up nicely as my friend and I arrived for dinner. In my previous visits to the Refectory I’ve found the food passable if a touch underwhelming given the surroundings so I was keen to see on this visit if the leadership of new head chef Aaron Craig had pushed the standard up to deliver the sense of occasion I hoped for here.

The menu at The Refectory York certainly promises a lot with plenty of compellingly described dishes featuring great product. My friend and I picked up on sweetcorn veloute and pig cheek starters before mains featuring chicken and lamb. The starters were with us in short order and I was straight into the smooth sweetcorn veloute which was paired with savoury relief from brown shrimp, themselves balanced against a sweet miniature brioche. The subtle sweetness of the sweetcorn made this a refreshing and unusual starter to whet the appetite, while the BBQ pork cheek on the other side of the table was a rather bolder proposition. Brown onion and kale threw even more savoury notes at this bold and richly sauced dish. Pig cheek isn’t seen nearly enough and was given full voice here, a satisfying start to any meal.

We were quickly onto mains, having our glasses refilled for the occasion, and again impressed with the presentation of the dishes. The corn-fed chicken came in a rich black garlic infused jus with a decent whack of tarragon as well as peas and mushrooms with a micro herb garnish to top it off. All the elements were cooked well and came together for another memorable dish with the sauce lifting the tender chicken nicely as well as tying it to the accompaniments. The lamb dish threw a good deal at the plate with a brace of pieces of roasted lamb loin being joined by a pea and broad bean tart while a mini shepherds pie joined it at the table. Again, the cooking showed a lightness of touch that did the meat justice. The light pastry case and fresh filling gave nice relief from the pleasingly rich nature of the dish, but I wondered if another element to bind the contents would help as well as a slightly thinner shell for a more memorable snap as one bit into it. The shepherds pie was also well executed, with well judged seasoning and a cheesy indulgence to the topping.

Cheesecake

This had been a hearty meal but our server still managed to persuade us into a pudding of tonka bean and fennel cheesecake to share, which was all our appetites could stand by this point. I can seldom resist something flavoured with tonka and this did nothing to curb that tendency, with plenty of the intriguingly savoury tinge it brings. The last visit I had to The Refectory York (which I should note wasn’t featured on here) was ok but didn’t wow me; the team have certainly upped their game though with new dishes that showcase quality produce with a few new spins. I’d wager there’s more to come from this impressive new team!

(Disclaimer – PR meal)

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Hotel du Vin York https://yorkonafork.com/2023/02/12/hotel-du-vin-york/ Sun, 12 Feb 2023 10:21:37 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=23793 (Ad – PR visit) Whether or not a Sunday roast needs elevating can be a contentious point. The view that, if eating out, a roast is best enjoyed in a pub by a roaring fire with a couple of pints of good Yorkshire beer is broadly held and with good reason. If you want to…

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(Ad – PR visit) Whether or not a Sunday roast needs elevating can be a contentious point. The view that, if eating out, a roast is best enjoyed in a pub by a roaring fire with a couple of pints of good Yorkshire beer is broadly held and with good reason. If you want to make more of an experience of it though there’re plenty of places around York at which to do so with establishments such as The Chopping Block and The Whippet offering fantastic opportunities. Also amongst this number is Hotel du Vin York which can be found on The Mount just a short walk from Micklegate Bar toward The Knavesmire and offers both dining and accommodation.

My visits here have been limited in the past to one afternoon tea and occasionally nipping into the bar when living in Holgate for a brief period that meant it appeared on my commute. Hotel du Vin York is a smart conversion of what was once an orphanage into an airy, multi room space that houses a bar and restaurant as well as meeting spaces and a rather impressive purpose built wine tasting room. For this visit we were seated in the restaurant which isn’t over crowded by too many tables and is tended to by plentiful and calm servers who were quick to provide us with glasses of wine and menus as well as juice for the four year old. From the Sunday Lunch menu we picked out a smoked salmon starter along with a French onion soup to reflect the venue before settling on sirloin of beef and chicken as the centrepieces of our roast dinners. From the “Enfants” menu, melon and berries were chosen to start before steak and chips to challenge my daughter’s constantly unpredictable fussiness.

A plate of smoked salmon encircled by grated boiled egg, and parsley with sharp capers and cornichon for a punch of flavour started things on a delicate note but the onion soup was truly memorable. Overflowing with melted cheese under which there were indulgent croutons soaking up the tangy soup this was a really great execution of a classic, and all too rarely seen, dish. The melon and berries from the kids menu was appropriately unfussy and kept her busy while we set about the more adult dishes.

Roast carrots and parsnips, green beans, Yorkshire puddings and pea shoots accompanied the meat along with plenty of roast potatoes and a stuffing ball to go with the chicken. The beef sirloin was perfectly rare as I’d requested and chicken not overcooked while the stuffing had a good bit of texture externally which wasn’t at the expense of tenderness. A decent whack of horseradish for the beef and generous amounts of gravy completed the picture for the adults while the child’s steak was, in all honesty, of a higher standard than the recipient would have demanded and all the more gratefully received for that. After thoroughly enjoying that lot, there wasn’t a great deal of appetite left around the table but we managed to share a chocolate pot with cream to end the experience before a potter around the lovely gardens.

Hotel du Vin York have succeeded in turning Sunday roast into an occasion without losing the feeling of homely indulgence that should characterise the event. Each element was well executed, generous in quantity and combined into a really satisfying experience. The addition of starters that tilt toward the venue’s French leanings only served to heighten our enjoyment, that French onion soup in particular being top notch. Thanks for having us!

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The Judge’s Lodgings https://yorkonafork.com/2022/12/13/the-judges-lodgings/ Tue, 13 Dec 2022 10:53:03 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=23644 A couple of decades ago when I was familiarising myself with York in my early days here, I was taken by some friends to a “really cool bar” on Lendal that had been a hangout in their later youth. My memories of the visit are now at some distance but I was shocked that such…

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A couple of decades ago when I was familiarising myself with York in my early days here, I was taken by some friends to a “really cool bar” on Lendal that had been a hangout in their later youth. My memories of the visit are now at some distance but I was shocked that such an outwardly grand building could be the home to such a comprehensively dingy, dark and subterranean feeling bar. This did not feel like a fitting use for a building that clearly deserved a great deal more care and attention than it was receiving. I didn’t bother making a return visit until it had received that overdue attention at the hands of Daniel Thwaites in 2014, with subsequent work completed in 2020 to bring The Judge’s Lodgings York right up to date. I’ve stuck my head in a few times over the years for the occasional pint or snack but the recent opportunity to check out the accommodation and food was too good to pass up.

The frontage of The Judge’s Lodgings York is generally a bustling and jolly place, even more so at this time of year as the crowded York Christmas Market fills many of the pubs and restaurants in the centre of the city. It’s set back enough from the edge of Lendal to give good distinction from the thoroughfare but still with plenty of atmosphere. The hotel is accessed by ascending the feature staircase at the front, while the bar area is an inviting low-ceilinged area at the bottom of the building. Out back you can find more al-fresco tables, with a terrace now featuring individual booths in which to sit with a bit more shelter. Christmas was in full evidence when we arrived to check in with a tastefully decorated Christmas tree accenting the reception area and a series of mouldings of judges heads carrying the theme throughout parts of the building.

Our room overlooked the garden toward the back and gave us a view over the city centre to York Minster which looked as resplendent as ever. Real attention to detail had gone into the room design which left it feeling luxurious, relaxing and comfortable while still supplying plenty of utility. I particularly liked the descent of a couple of steps into the bathroom which was a generously sized and relaxing space well appointed with all the hygiene products you could want. The usual amenities to facilitate tea and coffee were present and correct while an iced bottle of Prosecco was a touch we appreciated and enjoyed in the comfortingly soft robes before moving on through to dinner.

The dining room continues the theme of grandeur tempered by usability, making it a comfortable room in which to relax into a meal. I’d had my eye on the more intriguing options on the specials menu from their website which sadly wasn’t available on the Saturday on which we dined so we instead ate from the regular menu, from which we chose salmon and goats curd starters followed by a steak and a nut roast. Starters arrived quickly along with glasses of wine to accompany, the goats curd had a good dose of artichoke presented a couple of different ways while the salmon had a nice touch of heat from a chilled Bloody Mary dressing. Fillet steak had a decent char on the surface and hadn’t been taken beyond rare as I’d requested, coming along with a side salad and fries while the nut roast from the Christmas menu came with a nice rich gravy, and we finished with a portion of cheesecake to share.

It’s rather unusual to spend the night in a hotel in one’s own city so we took the opportunity after dinner for a stroll around the Christmas lights before settling back into the comfortable room for a good nights rest before one of the key pillars of of a decent hotel stay, breakfast. The morning meal was served down in the cellar bar, which had been spotlessly cleaned and showed precious little trace of the preceding evening’s revelries and was set more formally for a breakfast service. Eggs Benedict were well executed with a brace of well-judged poached eggs enrobed in a glossy, rich Hollandaise while a full breakfast was just the indulgence you would want, leaving you without further appetite for a good many hours.

York has changed in many ways since I moved here more than two decades ago, for better and worse, and the changes made to The Judge’s Lodgings York have restored it to the status that it both deserves and was conceived to enjoy. Staying in a hotel in your hometown is a novelty that gives a precious opportunity to see the city from a different perspective and the comforts the The Judge’s Lodgings York provided were a great basis for that. This is a great base from which to explore our wonderful city!

(Disclaimer: Press Visit at no charge)

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Bottomless “Afternoon Sea” with Guesthouse York https://yorkonafork.com/2022/11/17/bottomless-afternoon-sea-with-guesthouse-no1/ Thu, 17 Nov 2022 13:01:55 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=23584 I probably labour the point a little too much that I don’t have much of a sweet tooth and would generally direct my appetites toward savoury or cheese dishes than dessert. This makes the concept of an afternoon tea something of very little interest to me in general. I can (and have) accept invitations and…

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I probably labour the point a little too much that I don’t have much of a sweet tooth and would generally direct my appetites toward savoury or cheese dishes than dessert. This makes the concept of an afternoon tea something of very little interest to me in general. I can (and have) accept invitations and appreciate it’s something that the target audience would enjoy but it’s really not generally something I would attend of my own volition. Afternoon Sea though, is another story entirely.

I’ve come across a few different spins on afternoon tea over the years such as “Gentlemens Afternoon Tea” comprised of pork pies, meats, beer and so on but the idea of an entirely seafood focussed is a new one on me that sounded infinitely more appealing than a few finger sandwiches and cakes. The business behind this ingenious idea is Guesthouse Hotels who last year launched Guesthouse York on Bootham, beautifully restoring the building which had become a little tired under its previous occupant. While they have a full food and drink offering as you would expect of a hotel they’re also periodically running events such as this Bottomless Afternoon Sea which sounded like a perfect way to spend a Saturday afternoon for just £35 – though that seems overly generous to me, so I would expect it to creep up for future iterations.

We were quickly stationed at a table with views into the street and our preference for white or rosé as swiftly delivered as it was established before the showstopping Afternoon Sea arrived. Consisting of three tiers of quality seafood and a side plate of scones, this looked every bit the indulgent treat I hoped it would be. We descended the tiers from the top, starting with the oysters that we dressed with shallot and vinegar before finishing off a few mussels, after which moving onto tempura and regular prawns that appreciated being dipped in a roasted red pepper sauce with a decent bite of spice. Anchovy with a sliver of cheese and a crouton for texture was wrapped in lettuce to serve as a salad before we hit the bottom, so to speak. Baked scallops with cheese is seldom a disappointment and a brace of bread fingers topped with mackerel and clam were well rounded and satisfying. The scone element showcased smoked salmon and featured a really good punch of the salty fish, which in a more penny pinching environment would have tasted of austerity rather than indulgence.

Having established my lack of sweet tooth, affection for seafood and curiosity for something new, this was always going to be something of an own goal for Guesthouse York. While plans for later in the day meant we weren’t taking full advantage of the 90 minutes of bottomless wine, that really does make this something of a bargain when considered in tandem with the original and luxurious food offering. Judging by the reaction on social media, I’m not the only one that thinks this way too. Make sure you get booked onto the next one asap if you want a place!

(Disclaimer – PR meal)

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Legacy at The Grand Hotel https://yorkonafork.com/2022/10/26/legacy-at-the-grand-hotel/ Wed, 26 Oct 2022 14:10:21 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=23504 I’ve written many times about the unfair tarnishing that restaurants based in hotels seem to suffer in York, with The Park at Marmadukes Townhouse and Hudson’s at The Grand unfairly failing to find the audiences they deserved leading to the chefs involved moving on to pastures new. One of those though is starting to turn…

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I’ve written many times about the unfair tarnishing that restaurants based in hotels seem to suffer in York, with The Park at Marmadukes Townhouse and Hudson’s at The Grand unfairly failing to find the audiences they deserved leading to the chefs involved moving on to pastures new. One of those though is starting to turn the tide on this unfair assumption as Adam Jackson’s kitchen at The Bow Room in Gray’s Court has been deservedly winning plaudits. Next into the ring is a new fine dining experience from The Grand which has launched Legacy at The Grand to broaden and enhance their food offering and meet the high expectations of their residents. At the helm of the kitchen here is Ahmed Abdalla who is jumping in with both feet for his first Head Chef position at this high profile launch. Ahmed has certainly got the right names on his CV after stints at established Yorkshire hotspots such as Skosh, Yorebridge House and The Swinton Estate.

Canapes

Arriving at The Grand needs to, and does, feel like an occasion with a line of Bentleys, Aston Martins and so on sitting outside as super-expensive window dressing as well as a rather handsome Ford Mustang which I think looked like the 1967 model. Things hardly cool off when you make your way through the hotel reception with the scale and furnishing perfectly in keeping with The Grand’s standing as York’s 5 star hotel. Legacy at the Grand can be found at the end of the main ground floor corridor where we were greeted by a hostess who took our coats and remained attentive throughout the evening. The space itself is anchored around a large, central wine station from which Restaurant Manager and sommelier Derek Scaife would be serving drinks throughout the meal, and which felt cool without being contrived. First from that wine station was a glass of Nyetimber Classic Cuvee, always a good starting point for a meal and a great accompaniment to a chat with Ahmed as he came out to introduce the trio of canapés which would start the journey. Following Ahmed’s advice I started with one of my least favoured treats, an oyster. I’ve enjoyed these as tempura and ice cream but always struggled a touch with the texture when they’re unmolested. This, though, was given real punch by a verjus dressing that imbued it with a strong, almost vinegar punch along with a refreshing smack of ginger. Next up was a little whipped cod’s roe cone for a refreshing and clean tasting start that didn’t last too long before finishing with a ham hock and gherkin tartlet. This one was livened up by dehydrated and grated gherkin along with delicate pearls of piccalilli puree and was a fantastic end to this scene-setting prologue.

Jersey Royal Veloute

Getting into the menu proper, bread arrived at the table in a couple of different forms with a Parkerhouse roll which had been sculpted to ease its dismemberment and subsequent lavishing with cultured butter or goat’s butter with chive. The other side of the table received sourdough as a substitute as the friend with whom I was dining suffers from an egg allergy, which was dealt with perfectly throughout the meal. Next was a Jersey Royal veloute given a shot of character from pieces of cooked potato as well as slightly burnt cheese and a touch of sherry, topped with a pleasingly intricate leaf of chicken skin for extra seasoning and visual appeal. Properly excavating the dish to make sure each element featured in a single mouthful without any single one overwhelming showed a reassuring sense of balance: each element given voice but none drowning out the other. After that strong start we moved onto a langoustine course that put a langoustine ravioli alongside chunks of the star ingredient and amongst a langoustine broth with a few discs of carrot and some micro herbs to finish. Derek was keen to make the point that all the parts of the langoustine that would otherwise be wasted were used in the making of the broth, a nice touch to underscore the point that this style of dining isn’t simply about throwing more and more at a dish and doesn’t necessarily imply huge wastage. Whatever process had gone into it though, this was another successful dish that showcased the best of its star attraction that left us eager for more.

Langoustine

Celeriac is one of my favourite ingredients and often features at the core of plant based dishes thanks to the unique flavour that can be teased out in different ways with different techniques and partners. This dish also leant on a hefty dose of truffle to signify indulgence while a glaze of black garlic punched through along with a hazelnut pesto that gave context to those strong flavours before we moved into a fish course of halibut with cauliflower. A rich Mousseline sauce reminded us that this was a high end experience as did a few dots of caviar while the cauliflower took things back down to earth and a couple of mussels underscored the seafood theme. It’s worth noting again that the Mousseline was omitted from my egg-allergic friends plate in favour of a beurre blanc, making sure that he wasn’t missing out.

Celeriac

Lamb was the backbone of the final savoury course and presented in three ways with a cutlet being joined by sweetbread and sitting on top of more slow braised meat along with cubes of turnip and a sauce with an accomplished sheen. The cooking of lamb cuts such as this are always a balance between pleasing those who’d like it pretty much raw as well as those who’d happily desecrate the meat by cooking it through. Ahmed and the team hit the spot with this one though making sure the seasoning was spot on while fat rendered and the meat pink but unintimidating; an appropriate piece of punctation to end this chapter of the meal.

Halibut

Strawberries from Annabel’s Strawberries were first amongst a brace of sweet dishes, fleshed out by an aerated chamomile top with hints of lavender that refreshed your palate after those previous indulgences and began the process of livening one up with a shot of sugar toward the end of the experience. The final course featured ice cream and pannacotta with an intricately formed sweet honey comb topping and a single petal to break up the colour palate, another well resolved and visually striking dish on which to end….or not as an unscripted final cheese course emerged! Amongst the cheeses was one of my favourites, Baron Bigod which originates from Suffolk and is a match for any French brie, but the star of the cheese course was actually a section of honeycomb that had come directly from the roof of the hotel which has had beehives installed in the preceding year’s expansions.

Lamb

A hotel restaurant which wants to rely on more than the inertia of residents who may or may not want to venture out, but has the ambition of counting itself amongst the best in the city needs to have a sense of identity, hit or exceed the standards across the rest of the city and take advantage of the resources afforded it by being part of a wider business. Ahmed, Derek and all the team at Legacy at The Grand have achieved all of those things and immediately announced themselves as one of the best fine dining options in York. This is obviously not a cheap experience but £120 a head represents fair value for this style of food served in this environment and is slap bang in the middle of similar experiences in York, and the wine pairing at £60 was generous and with some unusual inclusions. The menu is thoughtful, well-paced, beautifully presented and served in a tasteful environment that imbues occasion while feeling representative of the hotel. Its own identity and touches such as their own honey elevated the experience further.

Honey

Disclaimer, complimentary visit for PR purposes.

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The Principal Hotel https://yorkonafork.com/2021/08/09/the-principal-hotel/ Mon, 09 Aug 2021 08:59:09 +0000 https://yorkonafork.com/?p=22510 York has many hotels and seems to sprout more and more on an almost daily basis. From funky new entrants such as Moxy to luxury with history thrown in at Grays Court there really is something to appeal to everyone. One of the oldest players is The Principal Hotel, attached to York train station and…

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York has many hotels and seems to sprout more and more on an almost daily basis. From funky new entrants such as Moxy to luxury with history thrown in at Grays Court there really is something to appeal to everyone. One of the oldest players is The Principal Hotel, attached to York train station and for many years known as The Royal York but now with a new identity as The Principal after an extensive refurbishment a half decade or so ago. Truth be told, before that refurbishment, it was showing its age in all the wrong ways as I found using it as a venue for requirements gathering workshops that were rather inappropriately next door to wedding parties as I recall. Thankfully the refurbishment was a resounding success and this hotel makes just the right impression on arrival these days, so an invite to experience it for myself was snapped up, all the more so when I realised it would be our first opportunity to enjoy a night in a hotel while Baby Fork remained in the care of others!

Giddy with excitement at a childfree night, we started our visit with a minor detour to The York Tap which stepped up by delivering a steam train arrival to backdrop our drink. From there it’s just a short stumble into the (revolving) back door of The Principal Hotel, but we took a few more steps to enjoy the striking frontage before checking in. Dating back to 1878 and subsequently expanded, The Principal sits in beautiful and surprisingly expansive grounds which are currently home to Thor’s Tipi offering a more casual drinking and dining experience than the hotel itself and its restaurant The Refectory. As I alluded to previously, the interior of the hotel is really quite striking now with a suitably opulent feel and lots of comfortable corners from which to take in its splendour. Reception of course has the now-normal smattering of plastic screens but that didn’t stop check-in being a quick and painless affair and we were relaxing in our room in no time.

All the details you’d expect in a prestigious establishment such as this were ticked off, with all the tea making facilities, hairdryers and smart TV you could reasonably desire along with a Dyson fan for a little tech accent to the decor that wasn’t necessary despite the heatwave. Furnishings were plush with plentiful cushions that I fashioned into a comfy bench seat on which to read in a panelled alcove and the room was a perfect refuge from which to be occasionally anxious at leaving our child in someone else’s overnight care for the first time.

The Celebration Package which we’d been invited to sample throws in a bottle of Champagne (Moet no less) and a tuck box full of treats to snack on throughout the stay as well as personalised greetings that made us feel very welcome. The room itself was anchored around a king size bed and was a peaceful and welcoming space that actively encourage relaxation, offering views without any sense of being overlooked – many apologies if that assumption was incorrect and local residents saw me in my pants. Those views were what really made the room special, with York Minster being framed beautifully in one of the windows no matter where you seemed to stand as well as views of the grounds that segued into striking illuminations as night fell. The sense of detachment while still overlooking everyone else’s evening amped up the sense of occasion even further while we settled into out champagne and comforts.

Not many things in life feel as indulgent as going full steam at a hot hotel breakfast buffet. If I’m honest, the quality of the food is (to some extent) secondary to the quantity, convenience and lack of judgement from fellow diners who are also taking the excuse to indulge. Along with an appropriately large amount of tea, this was just the ticket to fend off the previous night’s bottle of Champagne.

For rather obvious reasons, I’ve stayed in rather few hotels in York so it was a welcome treat to play tourist for the night in my home town. The Principal made it feel like a special occasion and this landmark building really does shine and exude calmness, exactly the traits that the weary travellers for whom it was intended would need.

Disclaimer – No charge, PR visit.

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Once around the Bloc https://yorkonafork.com/2019/11/13/once-around-the-bloc/ Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:30:31 +0000 http://yorkonafork.com/?p=19413 Living in York has myriad advantages but, as with all things, there’s a trade off somewhere. It might be less than two hours to London but that’s still a fair chunk of time to add on to a journey if London isn’t your final destination. The North is well served for air travel but sometimes…

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Living in York has myriad advantages but, as with all things, there’s a trade off somewhere. It might be less than two hours to London but that’s still a fair chunk of time to add on to a journey if London isn’t your final destination. The North is well served for air travel but sometimes one has little choice but to tackle London’s airports. If you’re heading for an early flight then placing yourself at the mercy of our country’s public transport network is a risky thing to do, so the most financially responsible overnight accommodation is a must. Step forward Bloc Hotel Gatwick.

Located at Gatwick’s South Terminal, Bloc offers budget accommodation right by departures so is perfect for grabbing a decent portion of sleep before an early start. In my case, I was due to meet a group to fly at 7am which would have meant a 6 hour drive or a very early start. Bloc seemed like a good alternative.

The reception desk is located just a few yards from departures so really couldn’t do more to help you grab an extra ten minutes in bed. With little in the way of opportunity to rack up extra charges from mini-bars or food from the stripped back offering, check-in is a brief affair that exchanges an entry card for a brief glimpse of ID. That entry card can be used to get the airport lifts to the appropriate floor, the eighth in my case, where you’re met by an expansive corridor and a notable lack of natural light.

There are a variety of room and suite options that can offer the opportunity to have a runway view or more space but I was going for the most pure representation of the Bloc experience, foregoing luxuries such as windows and natural light. The basic room was certainly small and didn’t have much in the way of amenity but was clean and comfortable, a touch screen by the bed giving you control over lights and temperature. To maximise space, the bathroom was configured as a wetroom, some frosted glass allowing some light in from the main space. Everything functioned as it should, but I’ve yet to see a wet room that hasn’t resulted in wet socks at some point.

This isn’t designed to be a room for socialising, eating or spending a lot of time in, so I retired to the terminal’s Wetherspoons for some calories to see me through to the flight. That said, post food it was an entirely acceptable place to relax for an hour or two. The bed was large and luxurious, though pressed against a wall that would have been inconvenient for one party had Mrs Fork been with me. There had clearly been some significant effort put into tuning the artificial ambient light, so the sense of being stuck in a box was minimised and I woke suitably refreshed to fight through an EasyJet flight.

Obviously this isn’t somewhere you’d want to spend more than one night, but it’s explicitly not designed for that. As a modern take on utilitarian airport accommodation, Bloc really hit the spot, delivering a snug cocoon I could retreat to safe in the knowledge I wouldn’t be in danger of missing my flight in the morning. It might be basic but that’s all part of the appeal and it does everything it sets out to do, giving you a comfortable space in which to anticipate your travels.

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