The Fossgate Social is well known for dishing out great coffee and schooners of craft beer from its understated but undeniably cool home on Fossgate and is somewhere I’ve been intimately familiar with over the last few years. The focus of my most recent visit though was to give the T’ART menu a good close inspection, which Allesandro was more than happy to accommodate with a selection of the savouries followed by one of their signature desserts. The kitchen is semi-open so the chefs always have an eye on the punters up on the first floor as they get stuck in, as I quickly did. The platter of samples I got to work on included examples of the foccacia, “Grandma Pie” and bruschetta as well as a few other twists on their dough-based excellence.

Evidence of the dedication to elevating these dishes beyond ordinary is easily found in the presentation, and then in each bite. The bruschetta packs in big wallops of flavour that are distant from the kind of supermarket example we’re more familiar with while focaccia wraps great depth of flavour around soft burrata and tomato. Potato and pork sausage with fennel top another section of the dough while it’s also pressed to service as a kind of wafer thin pizza showcasing tomato and olive oil. My favourite though is a delicate sandwich of ham and cheese whose cross section shows in geological detail the layering and structure of the bread.

With the savoury selection taken good care of, I moved onto the sweet section to try the “T’art Rocher”, a striking dish that’s surely set to become a key part of the T’art identity. This gluten free chocolate sphere wraps a chocolate & hazelnut crust around a chocolate mousse layer that further encases a salted hazelnut praline, a brace of biscuits add to the presentation. This is already available at another restaurant who loved it so much they added it to their own menu and it’s easy to see why. There’s a lightness of touch to each component that helps it live long in the memory after the temptation to crack it open is succumbed to. Speaking as someone not blessed by a sweet tooth, I can’t wait to try another of these.

It’s entirely evident that T’ART is quite deserving of its own location. I’ve no doubt at all that they’ll attract a loyal and large following while resident at The Fossgate Social but the real fun will be in seeing how they build on the work that this pop-up will do for them. I can’t wait to try more examples of their dishes at T’ART at The Fossgate Social.

The post T’ART at The Fossgate Social appeared first on York on a Fork.

Sara Danesin is pretty well known around York these days thanks to her 2011 appearance on Masterchef which took her oh-so-close to winning. Since then, she’s built a successful business as a chef consultant and hosts a successful supper club from her home in the city. I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy her food a few times, so when Super Break got in touch to ask if I fancied a couple of hours learning about pasta with Sara, I leapt at the chance to try a Super Break with a Masterchef.

Super Break now offer the opportunity to come to York and enjoy a Masterchef experience with Sara as part of a city break centred around staying in a prestigious city centre hotel, also offering a dinner during your break. Sara’s house is close to the centre of York so is convenient for your stay, as it was for me to stroll to on a sunny morning.

Before this class, I’d actually never attempted to make pasta before, assuming that the legion of abandoned pasta machines that infest kitchens around the country suggest it’s too involved to be a regular occurrence in my kitchen. Sara’s spotlessly clean kitchen was ready and waiting for the lucky participants when we arrived and, after a sensible interval for caffeine, we were following instruction on mixing egg and flour to create pasta dough ready to knead. As stated, this was the first time I’d made pasta dough and it certainly didn’t merit the fuss associated with it. Before long we’d knocked up enough dough to try several different types of pasta and were rolling it through the pasta machine like seasoned pros.

Our efforts quickly yielded lustrous ribbons of pasta that Sara quickly knocked up a mushroom sauce for before expertly twisting the sauce and pasta together into a delightful tower that we wasted no time in getting stuck into. Spaghetti in a simple olive oil sauce with olives was next up for us to quickly dispatch before fiddling our way through constructing ravioli and tortellini. This was a task that was reduced to greater simplicity than one might expect, requiring only a few neat folds to end up with some delightful parcels that required only a few short minutes in water.

I was a little taken aback at how easy Sara made the experience for us. The course was great fun and informal while still packed with tips and easily repeatable recipes to go away with. The real acid test of a course like this is how easily one can repeat the dishes at home without expert instruction, so I grabbed myself a pasta machine and did exactly that. Admittedly my first attempt lacked some of the finesse borne of Sara’s great experience, but I’ve successfully knocked up several fresh pasta dinners since this course and expect that to remain a staple in the Fork household. Thanks to Super Break and Sara for a great couple of hours!

Disclaimer: No charge was made for my attendance, opinions are as impartial as always. More info below.

MasterChef Travel Breaks – Starting from £170 per person

“Perfect for foodies, the Super Break MasterChef Travel breaks let you explore flavours and tastes and discover new culinary techniques. Learn the secrets of Italian cooking with Sara Danesin, finalist on MasterChef in 2011 and the audience’s favourite to win! This exciting break will take you into the heart of her very own kitchen, where she’ll show you how she combines her Italian roots and British food discoveries to create wonderfully delicious food. Passionate about both cooking and teaching, Sara champions one clear message – you are what you eat – so get stuck in for a masterclass like no other! What’s more, with seven packages to choose from as part of Super Break’s MasterChef break offering, there’s a food and drink inspired getaway that will suit everyone’s palate!

PRICE: Starting from £170 per person for two nights’ Bed and Breakfast accommodation, dinner in the hotel included, food or drink inspired experience and MasterChef merchandise.”

The post A Super Break with a Masterchef appeared first on York on a Fork.

We found ourselves with a bit of time to kill in Harrogate given the ease of parking relative to the centre of York, so took the chance to have a stroll around the picturesque town centre before locating the restaurant and having a chat with Victoria from The Harrogate Girl who had organised the event. The restaurant was obviously laid out with families in mind, giving plenty of space for prams along with an open kitchen to keep an eye on how the chefs are getting on with their hard work.

We were served an “Antipasti Classico” to start which was sat on a stand to give an elevated position slightly above the table, making more space for our plates. The antipasti was a typical combination of cured meats, cheeses, olives and breads. Fennel salami and fresh mozzarella were of decent quality and the creamy gorgonzola gravitated to my side of the table in rather unfair quantities as I tried my best to avoid sharing it. The generous quantity of olives was as lovely as the olive tapenade, though smoked chilli jelly a slightly jarring addition that was at odds with the other elements.

While everyone was enjoying the starter, we were left to our own devices to order mains, plumping for pork belly roast new potatoes and broccoli and “Aragosta e Gamberoni”, a pasta dish that highlighted lobster meat and king prawn against a tomato sauce with a hint of chilli. The pork belly was succulent and rich with fat, nicely flavoured without overwhelming the pork and presented on a bed of roasted new potatoes with a portion of broccoli on the side. The pasta dish was generously shot through with lobster and prawn meat, with a large king prawn showing off on top of the bowl. This was a very pleasant dish which was given a feeling of indulgence from the plentiful seafood.

We finished off with a couple of scoops of ice cream while commenting on the clean and spacious baby changing facilities (how times change). We had a lovely evening taking Baby Fork to Ask Italian Harrogate for the first time. The meal would have attracted a bill of around fifty pounds for the three courses for two people, which seems fair for good service and a well thought out environment. Thanks Victoria for arranging a very nice evening!

Disclaimer: No charge was made for this evening; opinions remain impartial

The post Ask Italian Harrogate appeared first on York on a Fork.

I’ve had a few people suggest popping along to Gio’s Italian Diner and it’s on a regular route I travel, so I’ve been noting it’s progress for some time. During this period it’s formed itself into something of a landmark on the Hull Road, making the most of its modest surroundings that, perhaps unpromisingly, features a hand car wash. The actual restaurant is based in a repurposed shipping container that feels anything but as utilitarian as that might suggest. Diners were welcomed by the friendly owner behind his strikingly large machine for producing thin dough. Around the same time as I got there, another party arrived with a couple of kids who were quickly issued with chunks of dough for them to form into whatever shapes they saw fit ready to bake and take home; a really nice touch that set the friendly and informal tone.

The one thing that Gio’s Italian Diner has chosen to specialise in is Calzone, which unsurprisingly dominates the menu. A four inch calzone will set you back up to six pounds while doubling the size means you’ll have to dig out up to another three quid. Alternatively a set menu including antipasti, a four inch calzone and some ice cream will run up a bill of £11.95 a person.

We made ourselves comfortable at a corner table while we ordered and settled Baby Fork into a space and got stuck into the antipasti and a few slices of cheesy garlic bread. It’s worth reinforcing at this point that this is very much street food style, so if you’re put off by cardboard trays and disposable (biodegradable) cutlery then maybe give this one a miss. I’ll happily eat anywhere the food measures up and what’s on offer here is certainly worth a detour. The antipasti we started with was a simple selection of marinated veg including mushroom, cauliflower, sweet potato and olives along with a few slices of chorizo and that cheesy garlic bread. Everything we ate was simple enough stuff but judged well and balanced nicely, a theme that was to continue.

Our party of three had all gone for the four inch option, variously selecting the pepperoni, cheese and ham and a special of a wagyu beef brisket with bbq sauce, garnished with some sharp pickled veg. We may have all been eating variations on the same dish, but nobody was disappointed. The Gio’s calzone is the epitome of a well-delivered dish from a chef that has focussed on making one thing as good as he’s able to. In my experience, calzone has always been a doughy, weighty disappointment focussed on size rather than quality but the surprisingly light parcels we enjoyed were a world away from that stereotype. In particular, the beef in mine was delightfully tender and sat happily in the taste of barbecue sauce it needed to make the dish while the pickled veg didn’t outstay their welcome. When relying on doing one dish well, every element needs to hit its mark perfectly and the final remaining element of the dough reached the same heights. Thankfully it was beautifully light and didn’t descend into starchy lumps as can be the case, it (both figuratively and literally) wrapped up a delightful course for us all.

To finish, we shared a series of ice cream scoops featuring a range of flavours including a delicious creme caramel that I’m afraid I may have dominated. By this point Baby Fork was due a change which in doing so exposed a weakness as I didn’t find a suitable baby changing area. Thankfully the nice weather made the back seat of the car an easy substitute.

Gio’s is a friendly, welcoming and characterful spot that achieves its goals admirably in delivering a superb signature dish at a great price without compromising on quality. With a reputation spreading rapidly, it’s worth planning a visit in the near future to check it out for yourself.

The post Gio’s Italian Diner appeared first on York on a Fork.

We were quickly seated and presented with menus to review while we relaxed with a drink, Grace enjoying a ‘Summer Garden’ mocktail that she describes as “A fresh tasting, saccharine still drink. A delicate blend of the fresh herbal notes of elderflower cordial, mint limonata and cucumber juice, lengthened with apple juice for the sweet kick”. Meanwhile I was surprised the prices of the wines by the glass hadn’t been knocked up a pound or two to reflect the upmarket surrounds. With our drinks, we enjoyed some ‘Olive all’ascolana’, breaded and deep fried olives that had been stuffed with mince. Grace dubbed them to be an Italian interpretation of a scotch egg. I take base satisfaction in anything deep fried that contains meat where it’s not expected so we were both pleased!

Having previously been entertained in the upstairs area, it was nice to get a handle on the dining space and deli. I’d not previously clocked the relaxed bar in the front of the building and had I done so I’d have stopped by a bit earlier for a spot of people watching before dinner. The space is large without feeling overwhelming or fussily broken up with unnecessary furnishings, but most importantly, it justifies its occupation of the building. This is certainly not a cheap and cheerful refurbishment; the amount of polished metal will likely breed irritation in the staff at some point as they attempt to maintain its lustre.

Before long, I was tucking into a brace of arancini balls that lacked uniformity of shape to a degree that a less forgiving diner may be irritated. Leaving aesthetics aside though, it was a satisfying starter that paired mozzarella and basil in one ball against provolone and beef ragu in the other with a light, sweet grilled pepper dipping sauce.

For mains we split our efforts between cod in cartoccio (cod cooked in paper with lemon, tomato and couscous) and a beef ragu linguine. As the dish was promised to be topped with crispy prosciutto, it was a bit of a surprise to find it subject to a curious inversion that placed the prosciutto at the bottom of the dish. While the ingredient didn’t lose its flavour, it lost a bit of snap that would have elevated the otherwise well executed sauce and perfectly cooked pasta.

The cod was tender and remained obscured at the table by a couple of slices of lemon, though it would have benefited from the tomatoes it sat on coming to the fore to give a splash of colour. The fish was very pleasant though and balanced well against the couscous to make up a nice light dish before we readied for dessert.

To finish the evening, I asked for a tiramisu while Grace teed up a panna cotta for a lighter end to her meal. The tiramisu alternated layers of boozy cream and rich coffee-soaked sponge to predictably satisfying effect while Grace said that her panna cotta didn’t muck about, offering loads of unctuous creaminess and a fantastic raspberry coulis.

While there were a few errors in the food, nothing compromised the flavours that came from the kitchen and the service and surroundings hit the spot. Carluccio’s York is in a well loved building that offers up great views of St Helen’s Square while you enjoy hearty Italian food.

Disclaimer: While the meal was not charged for, all opinions are as impartial as ever.

The post Carluccio’s St Helen’s Square (closed) appeared first on York on a Fork.

This site’s offering is rather wider in scope than the original, offering a wine bar alongside a food hall that includes a wonderful walk-in cheese room plus the wide range of charcuterie that you’d expect, alongside a workshop space. It’s impressive how much has been squeezed into the industrially chic small space.

We went along to a preview event to have a poke around and grab a selection of treats to prove the concept and were very impressed with what we found. Starting off with a strong coffee and superbly buttery pastry, we failed to come up with a plan of attack, instead randomly bouncing around the produce until we realised we would have to run for the train back to York.

The cheese room is just as fantastic as it sounds, crammed with all manner of treasures. We went for a Killeen Goats Gouda and a Truffled Pecorino after taking advantage of generous samples. From the meat counter we went with some Lomo and Coppa before grabbing a handful of Northern Star and Wild Beer Co. cans (yet to be sampled but reputedly tremendous) and getting tempted by some salami snacks and charcoal crackers. Clearly we needed to grab a bottle of wine while we were there too (I can’t disclose the bottle, it’s to be a present) before we found that all that only ran us to £40.

The meats and cheeses were wonderful, as you’d expect from an establishment as reputed. It must be said that the Truffle Pecorino was divisive with guests we had for the weekend but, as an affirmed truffle lover, I loved it! The Lomo and Coppa were hugely enjoyable, my preference being for the richer meatiness of the Coppa to the soft fat-rich Lomo.

The provenance of the produce here and attention to understanding supply chains and working with producers shines through. Ham and Friends is both a worthy expansion of the brand and a great addition to the Leeds food scene.

Disclaimer: I received a budget toward the produce we took away. Spending more than that budget indicates my enthusiasm!

The post Making Friends with Ham with Ham and Friends (closed) appeared first on York on a Fork.

There’s no doubting the effort that’s gone into the refurbishment. This building has been home to a gift shop and crystal ornament shop in recent years before a period of vacancy, but there’s no sign of neglect these days. Glass and polished metal feature prominently while none of the details jar with the building’s heritage. On the evening of the party, the restaurant areas bustled with servers delivering classic Italian dishes as the party was buzzing upstairs, while the man whose name adorns the building circulated for countless photo opportunities.

Star amongst the canapés was an intimidatingly large parmesan with balsamic drizzling ready for gluttonous chiselling while other bits on offer included arancini balls and cured meats. Based on the snacks we had, I’ve high hopes for the inevitable return visit to check out some Italian staples.

Turning up to an Carluccio’s opening event at which you know the majority of the attendees will want to take your photo while you turn 80 might be daunting, but Antonio was up to the task, gamely shaking hands and posing for all concerned before opera singers and birthday cakes came out to mark the occasion as we joined a chorus of ‘Happy Birthday’. It was a fantastic evening and great to catch up with some other guys from the local food, news and blogging scene. I’ll look forward to checking out the menu proper.

The post Carluccio’s opening (closed) appeared first on York on a Fork.

Of the three branches of Pizza Express in York, Museum Street is by far the grandest building, thanks to being housed in what was a Victorian gentlemen’s club, which had undertaken a recent refurbishment. I happily accepted an invitation to check out the refurb and refresh happy memories of the restaurant chain in which I first sampled espresso way back in 1997.

The building has benefitted from updating that’s in keeping with its history, making it a pleasant place to dine. On previous visits here, I’ve noted a lack of soft surfaces in the dining areas that has created an irritatingly echoey space. This has thankfully been corrected to make a much more relaxed experience. Being a former gentlemen’s club (no, not that kind) it should perhaps be unsurprising to find the gent’s loos large and ornate, but they’d been allowed to fall from their previous majesty somewhat prior to the refurbishment; a state that’s now been reversed. Also part of the refurbishment is a seating area that serves as a comfortable place to sit if there’s a wait for a table.

To get the food going, we chose a customary portion of dough balls, a classic Italian antipasto and a few extra olives to pick at to start before taking the venue’s name at face value and requesting a brace of pizzas in the form of an Etna and a Padana.

The service was as brisk as you’d expect from a chain as well established as this, so starters were in front of us very quickly, ready to be grazed upon between the two of us. It might sound like I’m damning with faint praise by repeating the mantra of consistency, but the dough balls were exactly as expected. Light and cooked to the point of a slight char that nicely offsets garlic butter. The antipasto consisted of flatbreads, salami, mozzarella, sweet peppers, sundried tomatoes, a few extra olives and some slices of marinated aubergine. To accompany the bread, a harissa-spiced tomato dip livened things up and gave us a favourite element over which to compete for the lion’s share.

It must be said that the pizzas were delivered on plates that were slightly too small, making it tricky to use the pizza cutters, but the dough was light and crisp under evenly distributed toppings. My Padana combined caramelised onion and goats cheese to good effect while Grace’s Etna reflected its namesake to turn up the heat with a generous quantity of chilli peppers and ‘nduja sausage.

With no space left for dessert, we called it a night and reflected on Pizza Express’s place in our food culture. I don’t think it’s unfair to call it a safe option, but that shouldn’t be seen as a weakness. Perhaps it’s not likely to find itself at the forefront of any food trends, but it’s hard to fault the value and consistency, and the refurbishment of this site brings a lovely building back up to the standard it deserves.

Disclaimer: While our meal was complimentary in return for this review, all opinions remain impartial.

The post Pizza Express York appeared first on York on a Fork.

On our last visit, we commented that our server had phenomenal powers of recall as she related the specials of the day in forensic detail. Clearly there’s something in the water as this trick was repeated with great precision when we were seated. Hopefully the server wasn’t too deflated that those efforts were in vain as we put aside the main menu and concentrated our appetites on the shorter set menu and wondered if we would push through two or three courses.

To start with we picked off Truffle Tagliatelle and Silky Pate Bruschetta while enjoying a glass of Montepulciano. The very tempting headline price of just under twelve quid for two courses didn’t reveal any obvious compromises so we relaxed into the lunch and found the starters appear in very short order.

With generous shavings of truffle, the pasta dish didn’t scrimp on costly ingredients and it was obvious the pasta was rich and recently made. I had been concerned that a pasta starter would compromise my appetite for a main course, but this was unfounded, though the pasta would have benefited from a little more oil to loosen it. The chicken liver pate topping the bruschetta was silky smooth and light, shot through nicely with crispy pancetta and sprinkled with fresh parmesan. The meal was as smooth as that pate so far!

Main courses hit the table quickly enough in the form of Gennaro’s Chicken Club and Italian Steak & Fries along with extra chips to bulk out the Chicken Club. That indulgence and the steak supplement added just under a fiver to the headline price. The skirt steak was well trimmed and seasoned, if cooked beyond my preference (though my preference is as raw as the cut will allow), and sat next to a generous portion of fries. Garlic butter seasoning didn’t overface the rest of the dish while the excess slaw sat contentedly enough on the side of the plate. Chicken Club pitched up on a board with a Jamie’s flag holding it together and a slightly eccentric whole jalapeño broadside across the breast. The chicken had a good char and remained moist at the core, though could have done with a touch more crisping on the skin.

Between us we only had space for one dessert, so a Tiramisu Pavlova duly arrived. The dish comprised a chocolate ice cream and a good sized meringue that gave the coffee flavour needed to earn the dish’s title. Grace pronounced it thoroughly satisfying and a suitable way to end the meal that would be worthy of a repeat order on a subsequent visit.

Jamie’s Italian made a contribution to the cost of our meal, but accounting for that the damage was less than fifty pounds for the two of us; very reasonable for a decent extended mid-week lunch at Jamie’s Italian. You can check out the menu here https://www.jamieoliver.com/italian/restaurants/york/superlunch/

The post Express lunch at Jamie’s Italian (closed) appeared first on York on a Fork.

Since then, Sara Danesin-Medio has built a strong reputation as chef and food consultant while also continuing her well-regarded supper club right here in the centre of our fair city. Last week, she had two cancellations and Mrs YoaF and I were lucky enough to be able to drop in at short notice.

On arrival (through the wrong door, sorry) I made friends with the house cat, tactfully declining to mention any of the YoaF cats, and moved through to say hi to Sara, who gave me an enlightening talk on risotto rice that underlined her commitment to detail.

Hosting duties passed on to her husband, Sara made herself free to concentrate on the food while the group made each others’ acquaintances. Being a late addition to the group, we could have ended up out on a bit of a social limb, but as the food started to arrive, our neighbours made us welcome, offering up plenty of their (very pleasant) wine to facilitate our induction to the group, despite some differences of opinion on the necessities of fox hunting.

Time for something to eat: quail eggs with truffle came together for the amuse-bouche, and thankfully not “over-truffled” for the sake of exuberance, it gave an indication of well-balanced dishes to come.

The main attraction was fillet of venison on a bed of smooth mash aside root vegetables. Sticky jus, tender meat and a wonderful medley of flavours not dominated by the meat made up a well-balanced plate that triggered silence around the table.

The starter was a partridge risotto of surprising lightness. I’d love to be able to recount the details imparted to me by Sara of the striking differences in risotto rice grains, but my ability to absorb information proved somewhat less than that rice taking in stock, so I’ll just report that Sara knows her rice, and indeed her pigeon. Perfectly seasoned meat presented with expert care on a well-judged dollop of risotto lived up to the ingredients wonderfully and served to further heighten expectations.

It should be noted just how well service went. I can reliably make it across a room holding two mugs of tea, but for a single server to clear covers in double figures without throwing anything at anyone or burning himself is a decent feat, and one which thankfully allowed a main course to drop in front of us after no more than a civil pause.

As the evening drew to a close, only desert remained. I’m pretty confident that my sweet tooth was the one brutally wrenched from my jaw with a sickening crunch by my ‘dentist’ in 2002 so, while I appreciate the skill in such dishes, my expectations of shock were as low as ever. Armagnac parfait kicked those expectations into check rudely, textural contrast with a crumb scattered on the plate leant depth, while the parfait itself balanced sweetness against depth of flavour wonderfully.

We had a marvellous evening, ate marvellous food, drank marvellous wine donated by new friends and were able to walk home. Sara makes wonderful food and it’s a pleasure to be in her home with new acquaintances. I also elicited opinions from a couple of friends who’d previously visited; their thoughts are as telling as mine.

“It was very tasty and we had a lovely evening. Her husband was a great host. “

“Very tasty. It pretty much embodied what I envisaged a good supper club to be like. Their house was perfect for the job too!”

If not me, listen to them. I bet Caroline Flack hasn’t heard of us either, but I’d wager we know food in York better than her, regardless of having been on that there telly.

Disclaimer: Sara Danesin-Medio asked us to attend at a reduced cost after those cancellations and, perhaps, hoping that I would say nice things here. She made no specific editorial requests and clearly, her confidence was justified.

The post Supper with Sara Danesin-Medio appeared first on York on a Fork.