{"id":22316,"date":"2021-06-08T08:48:16","date_gmt":"2021-06-08T07:48:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/?p=22316"},"modified":"2021-06-08T08:48:18","modified_gmt":"2021-06-08T07:48:18","slug":"cafe-21-york","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/","title":{"rendered":"Cafe 21 York"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Being a restaurant inside another business such as a hotel or department store can be a bit of a tough gig. There&#8217;s an underlying assumption that if you&#8217;re a &#8216;business in a business&#8217; then you&#8217;re something of an afterthought, leading to restaurants in hotels and so on being unfairly overlooked in some cases. The latest business in York to run the risk of being unfairly overlooked on that basis is now open in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fenwick.co.uk\/stores\/york\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Fenwick<\/a> department store on Coppergate in the form of Cafe 21 York. This is a sister restaurant to another site in the Newcastle Fenwick and is operated by the highly regarded 21 Hospitality Group which also includes <a href=\"https:\/\/thebroadchare.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">The Broad Chare<\/a> in Newcastle, who I can confirm from personal experience, serve a cracking pint.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4328-1024x768.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-22358\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4328-1024x768.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4328-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4328-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4328-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4328-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>It&#8217;s been a few years since I&#8217;ve been in Fenwick (nothing personal, I just don&#8217;t shop much) so it felt like it had been subject to some degree of titivation since my last visit but it didn&#8217;t take long to get my bearings and find my way to Cafe 21 York on the first floor. This space was previously occupied by Carluccio&#8217;s, and presumably someone else subsequently, but was unfamiliar to me. It&#8217;s tucked neatly away from the shop floor and effectively isolated to remove any sense of sitting amongst shoppers, with neatly presented white linen omnipresent amongst appropriately classy decor befitting the nature of Fenwick York. Along with Brunch, Sunday and Fixed priced menus there&#8217;s an a la carte menu that ticks off enough variety to intrigue while also alighting on some nicely crowd pleasing options that we quickly got working on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4334-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-22359\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4334-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4334-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4334-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4334-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4334-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>We picked a selection of dishes from the A la carte menu and asked for them to arrive as and when they were ready so we could share and graze at our leisure, something the friendly staff were more than happy to accommodate though their options that would be perfectly well suited to make up starters and mains if that&#8217;s your preference. We made a start with a light spring vegetable salad that featured asparagus, Jersey royals and peas along with heaps of refreshing mint and delicate loops of onion, then moved onto a chicken schnitzel with duck egg and truffle mayo. This did a great job of navigating numerous threats to its quality, treading the line between crispy breadcrumbs and tender interior admirably while truffle was present enough to justify headlining without taking over too aggressively. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"816\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-816x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-22360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-816x1024.jpeg 816w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-239x300.jpeg 239w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-768x964.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-1223x1536.jpeg 1223w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-1631x2048.jpeg 1631w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4331-scaled.jpeg 2039w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 816px) 100vw, 816px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>For sides we grabbed bread (from the estimable <a href=\"https:\/\/arrasrestaurant.co.uk\/bakery\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Little Arras<\/a>), greens, fries and a salad that all showed a lightness of touch which allowed them to reach their potential, but the real star was the main that had been recommended by the restaurant manager as something of a &#8217;21 signature &#8211; cheddar and spinach souffl\u00e9. This pleasingly burnished dome arrived on a screamingly hot plate in a sea of cheesy sauce looking like a pretty serious piece of work, an impression only reinforced as it happily parted for a fork to reveal itself as a fitting headliner, beautifully light but rammed with plenty of flavour. Chiselling the burnt bits of cheese from the screamingly hot bowl was a guilty joy, probably making a victim of the tablecloth, so I&#8217;ll definitely be back for more of this while leaving a suitable tip for the poor pot-washer left to clean off the remaining burnt on cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"866\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4335-866x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-22361\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4335-866x1024.jpeg 866w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4335-254x300.jpeg 254w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4335-768x908.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4335-1299x1536.jpeg 1299w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4335-1732x2048.jpeg 1732w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 866px) 100vw, 866px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>To finish I indulged what minimal sweet tooth I possess with a creme br\u00fbl\u00e9e which, carrying a theme, was executed perfectly. Each of the dishes really put the emphasis onto technique and execution as much as fancy ingredients or gimmickry and that focus really shone through on every plate. While I wasn&#8217;t going to approach Cafe 21 York with falsely low expectations on the basis of its location I also didn&#8217;t expect it to be quite this good. This is a confident entry to the food scene in York that&#8217;s worthy of far more praise than being &#8220;better than one expects in a store cafe&#8221; and stands boldly on its own two feet. It&#8217;s going to be satisfying watching that reputation grow and returning to enjoy more souffl\u00e9!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4340-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-22362\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4340-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4340-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4340-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4340-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4340-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><em>(Disclaimer &#8211; PR Visit)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Being a restaurant inside another business such as a hotel or department store can be a bit of a tough gig. There&#8217;s an underlying assumption that if you&#8217;re a &#8216;business in a business&#8217; then you&#8217;re something of an afterthought, leading to restaurants in hotels and so on being unfairly overlooked in some cases. The latest&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":22357,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-22316","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-reviews","category-5","description-off"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.10 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Cafe 21 York - York on a Fork<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cafe 21 York can be found inside department store Fenwick on Coppergate. It&#039;s run by the 21 Hospitality group headed by Terry Laybourne.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cafe 21 York - York on a Fork\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Cafe 21 York can be found inside department store Fenwick on Coppergate. It&#039;s run by the 21 Hospitality group headed by Terry Laybourne.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"York on a Fork\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2021-06-08T07:48:16+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-06-08T07:48:18+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/IMG_4327-scaled.jpeg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2560\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"2447\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Ben Thorpe\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@yorkonafork\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@yorkonafork\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Ben Thorpe\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Ben Thorpe\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/#\/schema\/person\/69d639999d92e3d34146f34f80e9e363\"},\"headline\":\"Cafe 21 York\",\"datePublished\":\"2021-06-08T07:48:16+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-06-08T07:48:18+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/\"},\"wordCount\":692,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/#\/schema\/person\/69d639999d92e3d34146f34f80e9e363\"},\"articleSection\":[\"Reviews\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/2021\/06\/08\/cafe-21-york\/\",\"name\":\"Cafe 21 York - York on a Fork\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/yorkonafork.com\/#website\"},\"datePublished\":\"2021-06-08T07:48:16+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-06-08T07:48:18+00:00\",\"description\":\"Cafe 21 York can be found inside department store Fenwick on Coppergate. 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